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This is a venue for owners to ask for advice relating to their use of the Ingersoll Rand T-30 Air Compressors only. For those with experience with this IR model of compressor this page offers an opportunity to provide help if they can.
IR is a powerful worldwide provider of air compressors, air tools, air preparation equipment and other products, and has been for decades. Ingersoll Rand T-30 air compressors are sold through experienced fluid power houses and also by a direct sales force and the compressor comes with a range of accessories and configurations.
If you are seeking advice about your IR T-30, the primary source for information about the IR T-30 air compressor is IR. Contact information is:
Energy Systems (IR)
800A Beaty Street
Davidson, NC 28036
P: 877-IR-POWER (477-6937)
Email: [email protected]
Website: https://energy.ingersollrand.com
For more information and to access manuals, you can also visit www.irtechpubs.com for all tools, fluids, and air product manuals and technical documents.
Got a problem with your Ingersoll Rand T-30 air compressor? Want to ask other T 30 users for some help? Just use the form at the end of this page. Scroll on down, and as you do, have a look at the existing questions and answers. Yours may already be there.
Can you help others with their T-30 air compressor issues? Please see the existing posts and add a comment where your knowledge and experience will help that one questioner, and anyone else that has a similar T30 problem.
My thanks,
Bill
More pages, questions and info about Ingersoll Rand T-30 type air compressors include:
- IR T-30 compressor won’t get under way
- Motor specifications for a T-30 single phase
- T-30 crankcase oil milky
- T-30 compressor rotation direction
- T-30 HP and CFM
- Ingersoll Ran T-30 head bolt torque
- Fill time change on IR T-30
- Pulley size for a T-30 compressor
- Ingersoll Rand T-30 over amperage
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Ingersoll Rand T-30 Oil inside crankcase become milky and contaminated with water
Ingersoll Rand Air Compressor Tripping Circuit Breaker – Solutions & Causes
Ingersoll Rand Air Compressor Bogs Down
I have a 1970 Ingersoll Rand type 30 model 253 compressor. There is a small copper line that runs from the outlet side of the high pressure head to a fitting on the end plate of the crankcase that has some kind of poppet valve that goes to the end of the crankshaft. I thought this was some type of unloader but I don’t understand how it works or how to adjust. Any help would be appreciated.
I’m looking for a manual for a 1997 vertical standing t30 80 gal 3 phase. It has a small copper pipe running from the bottom of the tank to the middle and then up to the pressure switch and I’m trying to work out what that is before I fire her up. It may be and old style auto drain but there’s no electrical valve on it
The part to the pressure switch could be an unloader, depending on model. But it would normally not go directly to/from the tank. Can you post some pix of it/them?
I am looking for a manual for the Ingersoll Rand 223X5 compressor and the plumbing that comes with the compressor. There are devices attached to lines going between stages and into the back of the compressor. I Picked one up and would like to try to compress natural gas at 1500-2000psi.
Thank You
Not finding a manual. But apparently it’s a three stage. So if the plumbing is disconnected, that probably means one or more cylinders is bad. Each cylinder will produce low pressure at one port and high at the other, even when disconnected, if it’s working. I’d start there. Then T30 parts.
But seriously, you want to make CNG? I don’t know that’s a good idea with an oil lubed compressor.
I am looking into doing this in the event that gasoline gets scarce in the future. I have multiple machines with engines that use carburetors. I have mixers and regulators that I have tried on 4 and 6 cylinder engines running on propane. I also have several cng tanks and high pressure regulators. A fellow I knew years ago did it with a worthington military 4 stage compressor back in the 70s during the gas crisis. A site I saw talked about using specials oils for cng . First thing is to find out if the unit has any issues… Read more »
OK, got you now.
“Maybe propane would be an easier option if it is available.”
I imagine that could get short too, if a lot of people are thinking as you.
Have fun…
Helping friend with IR Model 242 that he bought and has no unloader system nor check valve…previous owner simply had pressure switch to cut motor when pressure was reached. I want to install check valve with unloader port and pipe the unload port to pressure switch with unloader. Other than making sure the switch can handle the 2-stage pressures is there anything I need to consider?
Sounds to me like you’ve got it covered.
I just purchased an IR T-30 model 242-5N1 80 gal vertical, circa 1978. It came in a few pieces electronically and was Unwired. The install was definitely a homeowner fire hazard special and I want to do it right/safe up through loose/dangling motor capacitors and bare wires. Looking for a manual or install guide. Already ordered a valve/head gasket rebuild kit.
So you’re saying it’s inop due to wiring issues? Or just unsafe?
Any idea if it’s the original motor and the caps are correct?
Typically a manual will not address the internal wiring.
Maybe a few pix?
There may be some useful info in the links above, as well.
I don’t know if it’s operational yet. But the wiring is a kluge of wire nuts,14 gauge Romex and the 3 motor caps are all flopping around atop the motor as half the screws are gone. It has a 42 year old Dayton motor controller with no documentation which is half electrical and half dead spider…will order a new one. The motor is massive and not sure if it’s original but it has 3 caps on top (could it be a 3 phase motor…it was in a home auto shop with only 220 and no phase inverter).. the motor is… Read more »
Yeah, you probably out to mark all the wires before you do anything else.
The caps were probably under covers on the motor, but I suppose the covers are missing.
Chances are two of the caps are (supposed to be) wired in parallel to make a bigger start cap, and the third will be a run cap. Don’t know about the controller.
Be thankful the spiders were dead…
Have fun.
I have a T 30 model number 3000 serial number 858738 Can’t find nothing on it
See if these help…
Thanks in advance for the help. i have a Ingersol Rand T30.what would cause the contactor/starter to get really hot and fail. i have fried a {cutler hammer AEI6FNO} it does not blow the heaters on the motor overload{cutler hammer C306DN3}.This is getting expensive fast !
(Post moved to this page – moderator)
We’re talking the AE16FN0AC?
Have/can you open it up? How many contacts fried?
Delta or star hookup?
Measured actual current?
What fuse/breakers on the main supply to the unit?
Hey Doug, thanks for the reply. The contacts seem fine ,the coil is getting fried, not sure what you mean by the hookup ? It blows the 1 AMP time delay fuse, there is 2 of them. Could my motor be drawing to much current ? I checked the power with no load and I have 244 at the compressor. Also I have noticed for a while now that when I turn on the main 30 amp breaker I hear a snap sound , not sure where it is co.ing from , maybe the contactor ? Thanks again I cant… Read more »
The COIL is burning up?
Probably something wrong with the power then.
The AE16FN0AC has a 120V coil, the only thing to make it run hot would be high voltage. Have you measured that? Could be related to that pop sound…
You’ve checked voltage across all three phases?
Hey Doug, this is a single phase unit, as I stated I checked at air compressor and I have 244, that’s with no load.
Lessee if I have this straight: You have a single phase 240V 5HP motor, with 244V measured with pump off at … where, exactly? And the AE16FN0 you have has a 230V coil? (I was asking if you had measured to voltage to the coil, not the motor.) (The hookup question relates to three phase power, which I thought you were using because the AE16FN0 is a three phase unit. All of which strikes me as odd, using a $400 starter that way…) The pic is helpful; can you get one with a bit more light and less close so… Read more »
Hey Doug, thanks again for your help, obviously I have more trouble shooting to do ! The contactor /starter is a 120 volt coil, single phase unit . I actually pulled the motor and had it checked out, it is fine so I feel your on the right path here, I purchased a Amp clamp so I am going to try getting it going and see how much its drawing under load. The lower fuse is the one that blows out. I have had this unit for 14 years and never had any issues till lately. Thanks again !
Maybe you lost neutral. If so, instead of half 240, you get it all. That would double the coil current and probably burn it up, while blowing that fuse…
Or is there a transformer somewhere that supplies the 120? I’d expect not, but given the other things….maybe.
I will check that, it fried my new contactor/starter, so $475 down the drain ! Thanks for the help, I do appreciate it.
Greetings. Trying to find info regarding an IR Type 30 Model 243C4. Serial Number is 30T36473. The rep from IR tells me the serial number is wrong and he can’t help me until I get the correct number. He says none were made without a 6 digit number. Any help ya’ll can offer is appreciated. Q1 – date of manufacture? Q2 – are model 243 parts all created equal? I think I have a sticky valve but don’t want to tear open the heads without knowing I can replace the seals. Thinking about total restoration if parts are available. Thanks… Read more »
I apologize. The model is 234C4. I guess I was dyslexic yesterday….
Hi I have an older Type 30. Size 4&21/2 x 2 1/4, Comp No. 30 T 14323. Not really sure what I have here. I was something my Dad left when he passed and I’d like to rebuild it. Any information would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks
Pix?
Your best bet may be to start looking at t-30 parts and contacting the supplier. They may be able to help pin down what it is, exactly. There are many models and also many common parts.
Good luck.
Hi I have a old compressor that was my late Dad’s and I want to get it back in service. It had a 10 hp single phase motor on it that I am replacing due to fire damage. The pump is free. I am having trouble identifying it. One guy told me matter of factly that it was a model 64. I sent the tag info and pictures to IR and they sent me back a parts list for a model 42 (not sure if a 42 and a 242 are the same thing as I had someone else tell… Read more »
I do not believe it’s a 242, unless they completely changed the cylinder design. I’ve attached a parts manual for the 242.
That’s all I got, sorry.
I had one more short email to IR. The guy says it is a model 42. I can’t find anything on it.
Yeah, me neither. Maybe the i-r guy can point somewhere?
Thanks Doug. Hopefully so.
Here is the parts list the IR guy sent me.
It’s not much, but way better than what we had!
Thanks.
Is there an IR guy in this forum that I might could bother for some help? I’d like to know more but just FYI, I got it going and all painted up. Dad would be proud.
Kenny, if you get the chance, please visit this page: https://about-air-compressors.com/beautifully-restored-air-compressor/ , and post your compressor rebuild. Thanks. (Moderator)
I have an 1981 IR T-30 242 5D1 2 stage w/80 gal Horizontal tank. Can’t nail down Exact CFM. Metal tag has a bunch of abbreviations and numbers on it but I’m not capable of understanding them all. Any help would be appreciated.
Depends on the motor HP and pump RPM. Here’s a chart for it.
If you don’t get and exact match, interpolate.
Thanks Doug
How much does a IR Type 30 Model 242 weigh?
I’d guess the better part of a hundred pounds…Are you thinking of shipping one?
It’s got to weigh 2, 3 or 4 times that. EXTREMELY HEAVY!
Are you talking the pump (242) or system with that pump?
And if system, which?
I’m talking about the whole system. Motor, compressor, 60 gallon tank. and other related parts. Basically the AIR COMPRESSOR SYSTEM