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Sanborn air compressors are reliable and very trusted within the market. This page will provide you with as much relevant information as possible, where you can seek help, download manuals and navigate existing problems and solutions available on this site.
Table of Contents
- Sanborn Air Compressor Information
- Sanborn Air Compressors Manuals
- Sanborn Air Compressor Parts on Amazon
- Sanborn Compressor Troubleshooting, Problems & Fixes
Sanborn Air Compressor Information
Sanborn air compressors were manufactured originally by the Sanborn Manufacturing Company in Springfield, Minnesota.
Their brand of compressor then was the Black Max air compressor. After some years Sanborn Manufacturing was acquired by Coleman Powermate, Inc.
Subsequently, the Black Max air compressor line was discontinued as the original Sanborn brand.
The Black Max then became the Powermate brand of air compressor. MAT Industries, LLC then purchased the Coleman Powermate plant in 2008. According to the www.nujournal.com, “MAT Holdings, Inc., is a $600 million privately held company supplying hardware, air compressors and automotive parts and accessories in North America and worldwide.
MAT Holdings, Inc. is currently headquartered in Lincolnshire, Ill.” You can get more information about MAT industries by visiting their site: www.matholdingsinc.com. Now, Powermate appears to be offering the Sanborn air compressor brand Black Max again.
Then, in late 2017 there was rumor floating around the internet that Sanborn / MAT holdings, makes the Kobalt brand of air compressor for Lowes, too.
Tracking down information on the Sanborn compressor is quite convoluted. If you are seeking information about support for your Sanborn compressor, you could try contacting them at www.powermate.com to see if they can help.
Having an issue with your Sanborn air compressor? Need a little help from other Sanborn air compressors owners? Here is where you can ask a question about it and find help.
This is the Sanborn air compressors information page allowing owners and users of Sanborn, Black Max or Powermate air compressors an on-line location to ask questions relating to their Sanborn air compressor operation or problems as well as to provide each other advice if they can.
Note, we also have a page dedicated to Coleman Powermate Air Compressors which you can visit here.
Sanborn Air Compressors Manuals
The following Sanborn manual and parts lists are courtesy of site visitors that took their time to scan and send, or email their electronica copy of Sanborn air compressor information to me for adding below.
If you have a digital file of any Sanborn, Powermate or Black Max compressors, and would like me to make it available to all, please contact me for directions. Thank you!
- Sanborn 104A200 manual
- Sanborn 109BL300 manual
- Sanborn 44A75 / 44A100 manual
- Sanborn 400B 500B 500BP Operator Instruction and parts manuals
- Sanborn Series 500BL & 500BPL compressors manual
- Sanborn Series 500BL & 500BPL compressors parts list
- Sanborn Series B07F350 manual
Sanborn Air Compressor Parts on Amazon
Some Sanborn air compressor parts are readily available on Amazon, like this regulator manifold repair kit.
- Fits air compressor parts: 84A150, 104200, 104A200-22, 112A300, 143A400, 400A30H, 34A50, 34B50
Prices pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.
A Sanborn pressure switch suitable for pressures in the range 95 – 125 psi and also has a four port unloader valve.
- Brand new Air Compressor Control Valve (95-125 PSI Pressure Switch).
Prices pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.
Sanborn Compressor Troubleshooting, Problems & Fixes
If you could take a moment to scan the existing questions and answers below you may find an answer to your questions already there.
Can your provide advice for any of them? If so, please add a comment to that question. Can’t find an answer? Please scroll to the bottom of the page to ask yours.
Below are more pages with questions, answers and information about specific Sanborn air compressors problems:
- Determine make of Sanborn compressor to find parts
- Repair a Sanborn Model 500A60 belt drive air compressor.
- New Sanborn will not start
- Sanborn Black Max oil capacity and grade
- CFM rating of Sanborn Black Max air compressor
- Sanborn will not turn on
- Need manual for older Black Max compressor
- Information needed about a Sanborn Magna Force m109c400-20 compressor
- Sanborn Magna Force slowing way down
- Sanborn Magna Force manual search
- Sanborn Magna Force 5 HP oil check
If you have any questions regarding Sanborn air compressors, please leave a comment below with a photo if applicable so that someone can help you!
I have an older Sanborn that I can’t find any info on. Have sent emails to MATCO and Powermate with no response
It is a model v89a150-22. Serial #34601. 22 gal. 1.5 hp electric. Have found some numbers on pump. There is a stamp that appears to say 1372. Also what looks like DJOP. There is 4 stamped between cylinder heads
Try
sanborn “v89a” parts
All the links seem to go to the same stuff, mostly Russia, which may or may not be legit.
looks like you’ll have to make any parts you need anyway.
Thanks. Need to rebuild compressor but looking like may have to replace
Yeah, unless you have a machine shop….
Would like to confirm rotation direction on a Sanbor 500A60. Replacing a frozen motor and can’t find an arrow on the pump pulley.
If there is no arrow, ccw facing the pulley.
I have a B500 and needing a new air filter
That could be a couple of things. Just google “sanborn b500 parts” and you’ll get some part places. There will be a diagram of the pump. Look at that to choose what you need. Once you get part number(s) you can further google that for a better price, maybe.
Air compressor blows circuit breaker in less than 10 seconds. Model SP1682066. 120 wiring. 20 amp breaker. 2 HP motor. Ran fine for several years. sudden problem this year. What’s wrong?
Guessing it seems to run OK (or maybe weak sounding) until it trips, you may have a bad run capacitor.
I have a Sanborn B07F 350-13 air compressor. it needs new parts in the torque knob / spring valve assembly. parts 2a & 2c inthe manual. Everything I find says these parts are no longer available. where can I get these parts? Or can I replace the system with another system available like this pressure switch set up like this from amazon?
I have a Coleman Model CL0504013. I am installing a cooler. The present transfer tube is 3/8 inch aluminum. Can I upsize this to 1/2 inch or will this affect performance of the unit? I am trying to figure out the types/sizes of connector combinations I will need going from -AN 8 fittings on the cooler to the transfer tube. Some sizes are more readily available in my area than others so converting to 1/2 inch may be quicker and easier. My apologies if I’m posting in the wrong section. I am having difficulty navigating this site. Thanks in advance
Using one of those automotive transmission oil coolers?
Anyway, there will be a small effect at the output, but there’s nothing you can do about it. Just try to do as little diameter change as possible. Chances are you won’t notice in any (reasonable) case.
Thanks Doug. Yes I am using a transmission/oil cooler. I will be sticking with the 3/8 tube as I have some laying around. It has been interesting trying to find the combination of connectors. I think I have the final two needed coming via Amazon tomorrow. Most of the parts, minus the fan, should be in by the weekend. I’m setting up to paint a fibreglass trailer using low-volume-low pressure Pressure Pot paint guns. Just having way too much moisture in the lines right now. My desiccant is saturated after just a short amount of use. From what I’ve researched… Read more »
Cool. Maybe you could do a little write up on what you found and how it worked for you.
<digression> I have not looked, but it just crossed my mind that there could be some sort of elastic sheet that could be put over the paint can to isolate the air from the actual paint.
/<digression>
Good luck.
I am trying to find to correct replacement motor. The compressor was given to me and was told the motor on it was a replacement and it would work properly. I believe the model number is G500B60L but it’s very faded and hard to read.
Probably a “sanborn 500Bl”
doodle it and see if that’s it. 5 HP
I’d ask for a pic, but it’s broken again/still.
I have a Sanborn 80 and it just can’t keep up with the sandblasting. It is good for less than ten minutes so basically a complete waste of money. Does anyone know if you can beef up or replace this little motor so it actually keeps up with sandblasting projects?
Maybe, What exact model do you have? Although I’d caution you’ll probably pay a lot for a bigger motor, and still not keep up.
If you’re doing serious sandblasting, you should consider a rotary vane or screw compressor. You may not get as much absolute pressure, but you’ll be able to get the CFM you need.
The only other alternative might be to get a few more Sanborns.
Sandblasting uses a LOT of air. Usually the tool that uses the most amount of air. How long did you want it to run to keep up?? Like Doug mentioned A screw compressor will have much more air. But will also be much more expensive. If you use a larger motor it will not make a difference, but with a larger motor you can spin the pump a lot faster, if you change the pulleys. With most compressors the pump is running at best longevity vs CFM. If you make it spin faster you will severely decrease its life. You… Read more »
I have a Sanborn SLA7006056 with a 755H pump. It is a well used compressor. It has been cold here lately below freezing. I walked into the garage and the 220 breaker was tripped for the compressor. ??? I reset it and the compressor fired up fine. It cycled and ran as normal. After a while working in the garage the compressor started, ran for 30 seconds, then I heard a clunk and belt squealing. I shut off breaker until I could look at it. I took the belt cover off today and the pump turns fine. Turn on the… Read more »
“Crank bearings siezing?? I am familiar with tearing down engines. Maybe a tear down and look??”
Sure – you’ll want to get gaskets for it, of course.
The clunk sounds like maybe a crank bearing?
Anyway, luckily looks like parts are available.
Good luck and let us know what shakes out, ‘K?
Pix are good, too…
Well, I got to take it all apart. Seemed to be in fine shape. New gasket set and put it all back together. Turned it on and a pop and a bunch of sparks flew out of motor. Pump spin fine when installed. I think motor was on its way out. Start switch was worn (inside motor). Cleaned up contacts and caps seemed fine. I think start winding let loose. New motor and runs great.
That does seem pretty conclusive.
Too bad about the motor, though.
I have a Sanborn model no. 500BPL60V and it is rated for 140psi. max. When it reaches 140psi. the unloader valve opens and the compressor continues to run! I don’t think that’s a safe operating compressor?! What do I do? Please and thank you!
Probably a bad or mal-adjusted pressure switch.
If you want, remove the cover of the pressure switch. There may be instructions for adjusting it in there. It’s supposed to cut out at 120psi.
If you don’t see how to adjust it, you can send a pic or three of the inside, and we can probably tell you what to adjust. Most likely it or they will be some round screw-like things with lock-tight blobs.
Thanks Doug in s.d.ca. With your tip and a little deeper investigation I located both the kick-on adjustment screw and the kick-off adjustment screw. I set it to factory settings of 90-120psi and it works like a charm! Thank you again.
Yay! ?
Luckily you didn’t need to replace it…although that could be on the horizon.
BTW, the valve that let go was the safety or Pressure Relief Valve – PRV.
And you’re quite welcome – happy to have helped.
Good luck.
Sorry for my ignorance but what is the difference between the safety valve and the PRV? …and I’ve attached a couple of pictures too.
Looks like your pix got lost.
Anyway, just terminology. The safety valve = PRV.
It keeps the tank from exploding if the pump doesn’t stop when it’s supposed to. Also *may* keep the pump from breaking under stress.
Attached on behalf of Carey
Thank you Ashley Pearce for your help uploading these pictures. I couldn’t have done it without you!
…and for that matter, what’s the difference between the unloader valve as well? Thanks!
The unloader helps the pump start when there is pressure in the tank by releasing the air in the line between the pump and the tank. If it releases air and the tank loses pressure, the check valve located on the tank is bad.
I’m trying to send pictures…
Hmmm.
Seems to be broken.
Paperclip asks for image, does some stuff, but doesn’t add image.
ASHLEY?
I’m seeing it work my end… leave this with me
Apologies for the delay!
I think you have it figured out, but just in case –
The unloader is the thing on the pressure switch that the quarter inch tube is going to. You can see the little lever from the body of the pressure switch that operates the valve.
Right below that, the thing with the pull ring is the PRV or safety valve, which it mostly to protect the tank from over pressure and possible explosion.
BTW, I love your pressure gauge!
Thanks Doug in s.d.ca. You’ve been a wonderful help. And thanks for the compliment on my pressure gauge, I love it too! Btw, what is the difference in the two screw dials on the top of the switch? I thought the plastic one controlled the kick-in pressure and the metal one with the spring controlled the kick-out pressure. Seemingly not, because they both only seem to control the kick-out pressure. Is that how they work? Thanks again.
USUALLY, one is the cut-out pressure. Only.
Then the other one controls the differential between cut in and cut out. The differential is usually 30 psi, but you can generally get as low as 15 or as high as 40, depending on the switch. If there’s a part/model number on it, you can go to the manufacturer’s website and get the specs., probably.
But yes, they do interact because they are changing the relationship between competing spring tensions.
Thank you Stephen. I discovered the relationship between the two screws and that was exactly my problem.
Carey, sounds like the contacts on the pressure switch are welded closed (stuck on) the rest of the pressure switch is working as it should and releasing fill tube air at the end of a cycle but the contacts aren’t releasing like they should. You need a new pressure switch. This is why on all commercial grade compressors over 2HP they come with a magnetic starter that is included to avoid this from happening. An electric motor draws up to 10 times the FLA listed on the motor at start up. Example: a motor with 10 amps FLA listed on… Read more »
I have a Sanborn 5 gallon 2 stage air compressor
Model—021-0145 made 1994 serial # 455050
The compressor is leaking oil from the bottom.
Can it be fixed
If not how much is a new one
5HP?
Anyway, that number doesn’t look good.
How ’bout some pix of the thing?
Your tank has lived it’s life, now to the scrap yard…
It is not safe to fix a corroded air tank but if you are going to do it anyways, do a hydrostatic test when you are done.
Stephen
I have a Sanborn 104A200-22 2hp 22 gallon compressor that has developed a couple of pin holes in the tank due to corrosion . It’s about 30+ years old. If I was to try do repair it using screws and epoxy, what is the chance of a catastrophic failure of the tank? Alternatively Does anyone know of another tank that could be adapted? How about an Industrial Air IT20ASME 20 gallon tank $200 on Amazon?
It’s difficult to assess the extent of tank deterioration.
Best not to mess with it.
So long as you don’t modify the tank proper, you could use the auxiliary tank you mention, but a better choice might be more like the Campbell Hausfeld Replacement ASME Air Tank AR040700CG at summit racing, for instance.
Good luck.
Thanks to all for this information!
I have a sanborn portable air compressor that i need a owners manual and parts diagram/list for repairs. Its a magna force 3/4 HP 8 gallon 100 PSI…The serial # H1550370 and Model is 44C75-8 115 voltage thats on the label. Would appreciate all the help I can get very much….
Here’s some specs, and a 44A75 pump, which likely has at least some common parts – all of which are obsolete. But it’s probably essentially the same pump. so scope it out and see if it’s any use.
Good luck.
Thank you
would anyone know when this air compressor was manufactured? Would still like to get some information about this model of air compressor.
Thanks
I have a portable Sanborn air compressor, model 104B200-22, 2hp, 120 psi. Would appreciate it if someone could estimate it’s value to sell.
Depends on condition, just like cars. It’s a pretty good machine, so I’d think you might get 300 or so.
Thank you for this information, I had no clue. Any suggestions where to advertise it for sale?
You never know who’s reading the local ad rag, and you may or may not want to chance craigslist. You want to stay local driving distance, ’cause you don’t want to ship it.
Good luck.
Thank you very much for your help.
We are a nonprofit that acquired an in the box Sanborn V-Twin Cylinder Compressor pump 100 PSI, 960 RPM with 9″ OD Flywheel. Anyone know it’s value to sell on eBay?
Model? Pix?
Document shows 040-0129 Model 64, Flywheel is missing though.
May not have come with a flywheel. Not sure though, as the successor to this, model 64B is obsolete, and I can’t find _anything_ on *this* model.
Maybe try it at $100 obo plus shipping. See what happens. You never know who’s out there looking for what you have.
Find out what shipping will be – was it in a shipping crate?
The unit was in a fortified cardboard box. We’ll take your suggestion and list it at a $100 with a make offer option and see what happens. My guess is that this would be used for an air compressor.
The odd thing is the rating at 100psi. Usually it would be at 120. But 100psi does have its uses.
Good luck.
what kind of an how much oil does a sanborn 44a100 14 take. it was manufactured in 1979. like to find a manual too. thanks
Good luck with the manual, I can’t find a free source, although lots of places *claim* to have it.
10 wt compressor oil (compressor oil). You can try synthetic – it’ll be good so long as it doesn’t foam.
It has a dipstick or sight glass, yeah?
yes. thanks
I’m wondering if there is any where to get a replacement 22 gallon compressor tank for a Sanborn 84A100-22. The unit runs great, but the tank has two small pin holes in it.
Not a direct replacement. True of almost any compressor. And they are not cheap.
You can look at horizontal tanks with plate and find some that might work, depending on if you want it portable.
Probably your best bet is to buy the cheapest new machine you can find, and either store your pump or replace the new one with it.
In other words, think a little out of the box…
Good luck.
the best way I fixed mine was to clean the area and used jb weld or u can weld it
Hi , I have a Black Max 5hp 60 gallon tank, model B500BPL60V , and would like to know CFM rating on this compressor ? To determine if this will be adequate for painting my car
Thanks Will
Here’s the spec chart. Bear in mind, if it’s at all close, your particular machine may not actually produce the spec’d amount. Do some tests for air quality before starting the job. You need clean and dry air or the job might be ruined.
Good luck.
Trying to find a switch 034-0091 for a sandborn bo7f350 or a universal replacement that will work with the regulator… switch died.
There’s an open box new one on ebay for 90 bucks.
I’d forget the pretty and just re-do the plumbing with a more common pressure switch..but I’m not you, so YMMV.
Good luck.
Hi.. I have an old compressor that has a Black Max sticker on it. The model and serial number plate is still there, but the printed numbers are no longer visible. The compressor pump locked up yesterday and I am trying to see if a rebuild kit is available for this pump, but that is hard to do without knowing what I am looking for! I was wondering if anyone would be able to help identify this pump? About the only thing I know about it is the information that is on the motor itself. The motor’s part number is… Read more »
It would sure help if you took pictures of it from both sides and added them in this thread as a comment. I sure can’t even guess what compressor you have without seeing it, Derek.
Sorry about that. I wanted to see if that was doable before posting photos. here you go – (link removed)
Please upload the photos here using the “paper clip” icon in your comment, rather than having folks visit another site to see photos. Thank you.
Here you go
Is the pump actually seized? Looks like maybe the belt is/was shot and just lost traction…
No… I just left the belt on there. When the pump seized, the motor get going and burned the belt up, throwing it. I just went out and double checked… I didn’t think I was that stupid 🙂 lol
OK, It just struck me as weird that the belt was still hanging on the pump pulley.
Looking for a Canadian source for replacement parts for a Sanborn 130 ~1995. Need a valve plate assembly 043-0142 and a base gasket 046-0263.
Not sure you can get one in Canada. Supply is short.
A couple of ebay sellers have them – maybe you should order from one of those while you still can…
Hi Andrew, I to am looking for a valve plate kit for a Sanborn air compressor in Canada. Just wondering if you had any luck. Thanks
I’m replacing the motor on my Sanborn BlackMax compressor model# B165B500-25. It had a Magnetek 8-18253-21 230volt 15A motor(probably 3.5 actual hp). I wired it up to run off my new generator, but ended up running it at 120volts. It of course burned the windings. Besides which my generator wouldn’t likely have been enough for the start up amps this motor needed. So I am replacing the motor with one that is 120/240 capable and is rated at 2hp. It is 15amps @120volts and 7.5amps @ 240volts. Can you tell me what the minimum voltage this motor can safely handle… Read more »
Maybe. Does your generator drive an alternator to directly provide output, or is there an inverter for output?
Better yet, what generator, exactly?
Also, for case of the fried motor, did you happen to check the loaded voltage? What gauge of how much wire was between the gen and the pump motor?
I ended up replacing the motor with a WEG one and am running it on 115v. I had to put a smaller diameter pulley on the motor to drive the compressor. All is well and oh, the wire guage was 10 guage.
So it’s it’s all sorted, then?
Too bad about the other motor.
Thanks for getting back to us.
I am hoping that someone can help me out. I have an Old Farm & Fleet Air Compressor which looks like it was made by Sanborn Manufacturing Co. I am trying to replace the Safety Valve and I am having a hard time finding a replacement.
Thanks for any Help
Is the rest of it stuck in the machine somewhere? You need to get it out and then you can replace it with a new standard one – 130 or 135 blow pressure.
If you don’t think that’s the case, please send pix of where it came from…
First I want to thank everyone who took your valuable time sharing information here! I was about to throw in the towel searching for information on my 44 Gal Single Stage Model G500BP44U. Almost 1:00am finding this I thought it was a dream ha ha. I purchased my compressor a few years back, didn’t know a thing about it but the gentleman gave me a great deal on it, one small business owner to another and just getting my shop up and running at the time. Long story short it had a few challenges & continues to throw tantrums here… Read more »
On behalf of all folks that work on, and more importantly, those that offer up their experiences and help on this site, we thank you, Christopher and we are certainly glad to have been of help!
Howdy, I just bought this Sanborn Magna Force 3HP 120PSI 22 GAL compressor and am trying to find as much information as I can about it. Unfortunately the tag is very worn. I am able to get all the information of it except the model number. I believe I have figured it out but could sure use some help confirming it. The information I have is: Model M109BL300-22 – Need confirmation Serial J2610085 HP 3 SP? L I think Voltage 115 Amp 15 Phase 1 Tank 22 Gallon Tank 120 PSI Rang 120/90-120 PSI Stage 1 Stage Could someone confirm… Read more »
Model M109BL300-22 – Need confirmation >That’s what it looks like, small chance it’s something else. HP 3 SP? L I think Voltage 115 Amp 15 >Yeah, SPL= small power lie 1 HP = 745.7 watts – I round up to 750 P=IE, or P = 15 x 115 = 1725 watts / 750 = 2.3 HP There’s phase considerations in AC power, but ignoring that, 2.3 is the maximum possible HP. You can just do a search for “M109BL300-22” and you’ll probably hit parts. I’m attaching a parts list. BTW, take a look at the one below – I think… Read more »
Can anyone help me identify the model of this Sanborn air compressor? I only have the serial number. Everything else is to worn down. I need to get a pressure release valve. Thanks.
(Post moved to Sanborn page – Moderator)
If you remove the present PRV, it will often be marked with the pressure rating. If not, then just add 5-10 PSI to the cut-out pressure and get one rated at that.
If the present PRV is opening before the pump cuts out, you might just need to clean the one on it now.
Good luck.
The pump looks like a Sanborn 130. Here’s a manual that looks close.
Hi Andrew. The upload was removed accidentally. Would you be kind enough to add it again? Thank you.
How do I obtain a Manufacturer’s Data report for a Sanborn machine Mounted air receiver?
Post was moved to the Sanborn page. Moderator
Maybe Sanborn, with a model/serial, but more likely from whoever is named as manufacturer on the tank itself, if I understand your question.
I need compressor pressure switch on model 104a- 200-22 ser 62106
While I cannot be absolutely certain as I cannot find an image of the pressure switch, I don’t believe that there is anything particularly unique about it, and you can use any switch that meets the criteria. What you are looking for is covered here:
Scroll down to the pressure switch page and have a look. If you still need help, please add a comment to this thread.
So do I and a pressure regulator knob
104a- 200-22 pressure switch and regulator repair kit are available.
Use your search engine.
Neither the pressure switch (US 73) or the regulator repair kit (US 60) HAS to be used. Both can be fairly easily replaced with off the shelf parts and in the case of the regulator, some plumbing.
Other than what’s in the ads, there are no parts for sale here, if that isn’t already clear.
Good luck.
What is the air pressure in the tank?
If the tank check valve is not holding back tank pressure it will do this.
Someone has repowered it with a Champion pump. Sanborn never put a Champion pump on any of their units.
Part of the broken parts out of the old pump could be in the check valve.
When the pressure switch unloads, do you hear a faint pssssst and then it stops?
Hi Rocky, I am a few steps back from where your suggestions could help me. Sorry! I am however trying to repair what (in an earlier reply) I suggested was an irreparable pump blown by lack of oil (or lack of brain cells in the operator!)
I’ve disassembled the compressor pump and am trying to buy a new rod and a gasket kit – I will be starting a new thread to see if anyone can help me identify whether I need the “right” rod or the “left” rod for this champion pump.
Thanks for your willingness to help me!
I have a Sanborn rocket that when plugged in it doesn’t run but 20 seconds then shuts down.
Sorry, don’t know what that is. Do you have a model number? Failing that, some pix so we can see what it is?
Has it worked in the present location in the past?
Have you checked anything in the troubleshooting guide? What?
Looking to find a air pressure regulator control valve for model # B09J500-20 5hp 120psi. Did not see manual or parts list for this model. Thanks in advance
If you Google “regulator manifold repair for Sanborn air compressor” you’ll find some. Whether one will fit or not may depend on your ability to cobble up the footprint to take a larger or smaller version. However, the air doesn’t care, and as long as you can live with the result, go for it.
Thank You. I was able to apoxy the control knob back on at the setting I need so I can not adjust it but no need since I hit it at the setting I need. Everything else works great.
Well, that’s one way to do it…Was the knob stripped? And you don’t mess with setting, normally?
Hi and Thank you for this web page and help.
I am looking to find part # 092-0011 Knob Assembly for a Sanborn 3.5 hp 07FL350-20 Compressor. It appears that the part is no longer available. Does anyone know differently?
Thank you again, Mark Sands
PS here is a link to the PDF parts and manual for this unit. https://www.arkansas-ope.com/B07F350-13.pdf
Hey Mark, thanks for the Sanborn manual. It’s up on the page for all to download and use now. If you Google “replacement regulator manifold for Sanborn air compressors” as I just did, you’ll find a number of options, including entire manifold replacement if the offered regulator handles don’t suit. Good luck.
Bill,
Thank you. I have been exploring the idea of a entire new manifold and regulator. The handle/ option on line is only offered in female thread application and I need a male application or and adaptor .. Again thanks for your reply .
Best Mark Sands
If the drawing’s right, you just need a nipple in there, right?
Depending on where you buy pipe and fittings, building a manifold may well be more costly than buying whatever you’ve found, if it fits otherwise.
I do not believe a nipple will work , it’s more like a bonnet,, Try to include a photo with this reply. But I don’t see it connected so hopefully you get it
Oh – sorry. I believe you are correct.
I thought we were talking about the manifold, but you’re talking some part of the actual regulator. My bad. Never mind. ?
Doug,
Thank you for trying to help me out.
Best, Mark
Mark, I have the EXACT same problem with my Sanborn 3.5 Horsepower B07FL350-20-SWC Air Compressor. Were you successful in locating Part Number 092-0011 Knob Assembly? If so where did you find it? If not, did you find a suitable substitute. Please let me know. I do not want to scrap a working air compressor due to a broken Knob Assembly. Thanks in advance.
Hi Stephen,
Like you, this is a work in progress. The short answer is not yet. I have not given up on the concept of somehow repairing the regulator handle. I tried completely covering the bonnet in epoxy to hold the adjustment knob in place, it worked for about three minutes and then blew the whole epoxy crown off the bonnet. I will keep you posted. Like in kind please do the same. Thanks for reaching out.
Best, Mark Sands
Hi Stephen , I hope this post gets to you, it is my 4th attempt. On my Sandborn model # B09J500-20 5hp 120psi. I Re-approached the bonnet – Epoxy idea , I have had Success! Bottom line – Used JB Weld Wet epoxy, molded over the upper threads of the bonnet ( bottom threads screw into the compressor diaphragm mount) Use a straw and some paper to keep the shaft clear of epoxy and make a new cap to hold the Brass adjusting screw. I did have to cut down the knob that connects to the upper part of the… Read more »
Mr. Sands, your earlier posts too have been approved. However, if Stephen is no longer visiting the page and has discontinued notifications, until he decides to visit the page again, he won’t see your latest. Thank you for taking the time to post though. If not Stephen, we expect others with benefit from your help. – Moderator)
Bill,
Thank you for your replay, and I agree, if it can help another it is well worth it. I also thank you for this web chat platform as it has help me with my approach to the end result.
All my best, Mark Sands.
From all of us that contribute, you are most welcome, Mark.
Did you ever find the part #092-0011
I need one also
Jimmy,
I’m having the same issue, did you find a fix?
thanks, Gregg
My recomendation is not too buy Sanborn Compressors. I have model SLA198301 for less than a year and the shaft between the piston and the motor snapped and they would not warranty it .I barely used it,only used to air up my tires.They tried getting me to buy the replacement kit for more than half of what I paid for the whole unit. The customer service rep was very rude when I finally was able too speak too one.My last compressor lasted me several years,this was my first and last Sanborn product that I will ever buy.
Can you verify that model number? I’m not finding it anywhere except on this page…
Thanks.
Unfortunately the problem wasn’t tight belts but lack of oil in the pump…in my trouble shooting I busted the insides of the pump irreparably – thanks for all of your help anyway! Real problem is I need a better brain!
Crud. Sorry to hear that.
Thanks for letting us know.
What diameter is the pulley on the motor of your 500A60? Mine is lost.
P.S. Motor bearings are sealed and cannot be lubed. Replace only.
Sounds like bearings are going tight. My motor bearings in my 500A60 went tight. TURN BREAKER OFF! Remove belt, turn compressor pulley by hand, then turn motor pulley by hand. Whichever does not turn easily is the problem. Bearings in motor can be replaced.
It looks like the capacitor cover on the left in the picture has been moved the screw is not through the cover and you can see the clean spot where it should be , it’s possible the capacitor cover is touching the connector’s and has it shorted out .
Good catch, Robert! I missed that.
Thanks.
How do I rewire my Sanborn 104A200-22 motor from 115v to 230v? There are no diagrams on or in the motor. There are 4 terminals on the motor. Currently, power goes to terminals 1 and 4 with a wire commons out of the motor connected terminal 2.
You probably can’t from the sound of that. But maybe…
Post pix of the wiring area and any plate that is affixed to the motor and we’ll see.
Some pix. No other labels on or in motor.
OK. That helps. Do you have an Ohmmeter (VOM)?
If so, what’s the resistance between 1&4, and 1&2 and 3&4? The readings will be quite low, close to a short, but not a short, at least mostly.
The wire on 2 is the “common” you referred to, and goes into the motor, somewhere, right?
What’s in the wire nut?
Can you gently dust off that white label? I think that was the wiring diagram, but we can still figure it out if you have a meter.
Thanks Doug, The wire nut is connecting the cord to the pressure switch. Other side of the cord goes to terminal 4. Switch comes back and connected to terminal 1. Terminal 1 & 2 are connected together (checked while running and both at 120v). There is a winding between 1 & 4 at 0.7 ohms, and another winding between the Jumper coming out of the motor and 4 at 0.7 ohms. Terminal 3 reads 300 meg ohms plus to any other terminal and ground. So, is the jumper a second coil for running or is it the start coil? I… Read more »
OK, that’s inconclusive. Thanks for a clear reply. The start cap is not a concern. I probably should have asked this, too: If you remove the jumper, what readings do you get to the terminals? 3 is still gonna be open, but it is where we will connect two wires together. We need to figure out which to go there. And then we’ll also move one of the line cord wires somewhere. With the jumper still off, what readings across the various terminals? I’m thinking the the “two” windings at .7 ohm are actually one parallel set of windings, each… Read more »
The readings I stated are with the jumper (wire into the motor) removed. So there is one winding 0.7 ohms between 1 and 4, and another between jumper wire from inside motor to 4. Those two are currently in parallel with the jumper connected to terminal 2(line). So if I move the jumper from 2(line) to 3 and the cord from 4 to 3 it would put those two windings in series. But with no diagram I am a little worried. That is why I was wondering if the winding between the jumper wire from the motor and 4 was… Read more »
Oh, OK. When you do that, you get 1.4 ohms across the power leads, correct? If so, you’re done. Well, except for the smoke test…
Your motor almost certainly does not have a start winding. If it did, it would be reversible as well, which cannot be the case with only 4 wires, while also being dual voltage.
BTW, are you doing this in anticipation of wiring dedicated power for it?
Good luck.
Yes, I get 1.4 ohms. Thanks for the info about the start winding, that is where I was unsure.
It is currently on a 20 amp 115v breaker and it trips sometimes. I have a 20 amp 220v outlet there too, so that is why I want to convert it.
Cool. You might want to check the capacitor(s), too, then. Could be weak. Going to 220 is more efficient, regardless.
I have a pinhole size leak at a weld in the tank of my Sanborn compressor, is there any acceptable way of repairing this other than having it rewelded?
It’s my opinion that a “pinhole leak” is just one where the tank deterioration has finally reached the surface of the tank. No way can you tell from that how much more of the inside of the tank has been compromised by rust, and where the next leak, or complete tank failure will happen.
I don’t recommend welding a failed compressor tank to try and fix it. There’s too much risk for another failure.
Aside from welding, I have no knowledge of any repair process for a fault compressor tank, and again, I certainly don’t recommend welding it.
Release press., clean and solder pinhole. Better to braze it, best to wire weld it.
Welding by a proffesional. Yoiu may have to sign waver. Try Sure-weld first . Tap and screw.
I have 30 gallon Sanborn. Air compressor will not turn on, outlet is hot but no noise. A o smith motor, the compressor less than a year old.
An actual model or pic would help…
You mean the electric outlet gets hot? or…just has power?
Short story, the motor doesn’t run, but there is “NO” noise? Look for a reset button on the motor – some reset automatically, others don’t. If you find it and it feels loose, that’s OK,especially after you’ve pushed it once. To be safe, push it with it unplugged.