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Why is it a compressor will not build pressure? Does the following describe what’s happening, or rather, what’s not happening, on your compressor?
The motor runs and runs. The pump sounds like it’s operating, but the air pressure in the tank is not rising in pressure at all. Or, the pressure in the tank rises to a certain pressure level and then the pressure stops rising, even though the compressor continues to run and run.
Leaving you wondering why your compressor isn’t quite working how an air compressor should work!
I will provide you with the the most common reasons as to why your compressor is not building pressure, the severity of them and provide you with ways to check each one.
Table of Contents
- Why is my air compressor not building pressure?
- What are the most likely reasons for my air compressor not building pressure?
- What to check on an air compressor when the compressor will not build pressure?
- FAQ’s (Frequently asked questions) about why an air compressor won’t build pressure
- Reader Questions
- Get some help with a compressor that will not build pressure!
Why is my air compressor not building pressure?
The air compressor is really a pump driven by an electric motor, or perhaps with a motor driven by other fuel types like gasoline or diesel.
The part that actually compresses the air is often referred to as the pump, or compressor pump.
In the photo above, part of what’s missing is the pump head, which will contain an intake port. This pump is also missing the valves or valve plates which open and close depending on whether the pump is in the intake or compression cycle – you can see those below
On all air compressors, the pump pulls in free air from the atmosphere through an intake valve. That intake port on the pump typically has a filter on it to keep dust out of the pump. The pump is then supposed to drive the air it takes in into the tank, and in so doing increases air pressure in the compressor tank.
Different styles of air compressors, reciprocating versus rotary screw for example, accomplish this with different methods, yet they pretty much all do the same thing, suck in air from around the room or through an outside air intake and drive that air into a tank to build up pressure.
When a compressor pump is driven by a properly working motor, and the pump is cycling, why won’t the pressure in the tank build? Next comes the most likely reasons.
What are the most likely reasons for my air compressor not building pressure?
The most likely reasons for your air compressor not building pressure are:
- Compressor intake valve failing
- Compressor pump pressure valve failing
- Compressor gasket failure
- Compressor piston seal failure
- Tank check valve is compromised
Compressor Intake Valve Failing
If it is the intake valve that has failed, then the compressor will draw air in on one cycle, but then that air will blow right back out the intake valve – the valve into which air from the compressor intake filter flows – and out of the pump again when the piston is in the compression stroke.
Air always takes the route of least resistance so a little of that air may actually be entering the tank, but then more flows out of the valve rather than down into the tank, which is why the compressor can sometimes reaches a certain tank pressure beyond which it won’t go.
How to check if the Compressor Intake Valve is the Failing
Remove the intake filter and feel if air is moving in and out of that opening while the compressor is running. Be careful as the pump itself can become very hot.
If air is huffing back out of the intake valve port your intake valve is suspect. For most of us, a failed reed / flapper valve(s) mean a trip to the compressor repair shop as it will mean tearing down the compressor pump to try and identify the failure, and then the search will begin for compressor parts.
Sometimes replacement valve plates are not available. That being the case, some clever compressor owners have made their own from spring steel. See the sitemap page under troubleshooting for links to pages about making your own reed or flapper valves for compressor pumps, and also about making your own gaskets too, since almost invariably if a compressor pump head is disassembled, some gasket damage will occur.
Compressor Pump Pressure Valve Failing
If it is the pressure valve or pressure switch in the valve plate that is the source of the problem, air will flow into the tank through the pressure valve on the compression stroke, but then be drawn right back out of the tank as the piston cycle to try and draw more air in through the intake valve.
Again, air always follows the path of least resistance, and if it is easier for the air in the tank to flow back out through the damaged or failed pressure valve than be drawn in to the cylinder via the intake valve, then that is what the air will do.
The Pump Valves
Reciprocating air compressors have valves that allow air to enter the cylinder area when the piston is moving down, and allow the air to be directed into the tank line when the compressor piston is on the compression stroke.
Other styles of air compressor pumps have valves too. Low cost reciprocating compressors typically have have low cost reed or flapper type valves which, at least according to the numbers of persons that report valve issues on this site, don’t seem to last very long.
If either the intake valve or pressure valve fails (breaks or fails to seat properly due to debris build up) then your compressor will run all day and never build very much pressure in the compressor tank. The valve problem may also not appear until a certain tank pressure level is reached, at which point, the valve problem manifests itself by the compressor continuing to run, but no further buildup of air tank pressure occurs.
Once you have eliminated all other reasons why the compressor runs but doesn’t build pressure, it may be time to tear down the pump and examine those valves.
Compressor Gasket Failure
The flow path of the intake air inside the pump head is often only separated from the flow path of the pressurized air to the tank by a gasket.
Gaskets do wear out. Good quality gaskets cost more money than cheap ones, so it stands to reason that you probably are not getting top quality parts – whether gaskets or other components – in a $40 DIY type air compressor.
It is possible that your compressor is working fine, but as it is cycling, the air is flowing back and forth across a failed gasket inside the pump instead of being forced into the tank.
How to Check if the Compressor Gasket is Failing
Sometimes air may flow into the tank until the pressure in the tank is high enough to force an opening through a normally sealed gasket in the pump head. You need to, or have the compressor pump torn down to check this out.
If you are tearing the pump down it is advisable to change both the valve plate and all the gaskets, as taking the pump apart will likely damage the gaskets so they will not seal when the pump is rebuilt.
Compressor Piston Seal Failure
The compressor pump sucks atmospheric air through its intake valve and has a filter that aims to restrict dust particles from entering the compressor tank. The rings on the compressors pump act as seals, which prevent excess oil from being able to flow into the compressor’s cylinders.
However, another common issue for the air compressor not building enough pressure might be from its pump’s defective rings. If the rings are defective, the pumps will lose pressure and compression strength. This can also reduce the pump’s efficiency to optimise the production of compressed air.
How to Check if the Compressor Piston Seal is Failing
It’s worth checked the piston seal and rings at the same time. Normal checks on air compressors conducted by technicians include rebuilding or replacing the pumps with worn seals to confirm that both pumps and rings are operating efficiently, the valve plate seal might then be the source of the leak.
An alternative way of detecting pressure loss from piston rings is when air or oil is coming out of the oil fill tube. Regular inspections on air tube fittings, ensuring they are firmly attached to their rightful positions must be conducted. It is possible however, that the piston ring failure causes other components inside of the cylinder to be damaged.
If the piston cycles with worn down rings, metal-to-metal contact is quite inevitable. This is a very common cause of pressure loss within the combustion engine with a stuck air compressor piston. This fault makes it relatively easy to notice a lack of pressure build up, as pressure will not be building up from the gauge.
Tank Check Valve is Compromised
The check valve is an important component that restricts compressed air from back-flowing into the pump.
When this component is defective, the discharge head of the pump will receive a high pressure of air. It will affect the pump’s motor might and stop it from restarting anytime the tank is full. However, the motor will start when the air tank is empty.
How to Check if the Tank Check Valve is Failing
If your air tank has a defective check valve, there will be air leaks from the unloader. So you must run another spot to check carefully on the unloader valve.
The unloader valve should burp or hiss out a bit of compressed air when the compressor reaches it’s cut out pressure and the compressor stops. The unloader valve should not have air bleeding out of it all of the time. If that is happening, this may be the reason that your air compressor cannot compress air past a certain pressure level as it is losing air as fast as it can compress it.
If the unloader valve is leaking, you need double check it but first check your tank check valve. A poorly seating or failed tank check valve is frequently the cause of what appears to be an unloader valve leak as the air will bleed out of the unloader from the tank as long as the compressor is NOT running. Try to confirm if the air leaks continue when the pump is inactive, and replace the check valve immediately.
Summary of the Most Likely Reasons for my Air Compressor Not Building Pressure
Below is a summary table of the most likely reasons for your air compressor not building pressure with the severity of each and cost implications provided:
| Reason | Severity (low-mid-high) | Cost Implications | Cost Estimate |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compressor intake valve failing | Low | A replacement valve + 1 hour labour | $120 |
| Compressor pump pressure valve failing | Low | A replacement valve + 1 hour labour | $120 |
| Compressor gasket failure | Mid | A replacement gasket of a good quality (more costly) + 1 hour labour | $150 |
| Compressor piston seal failure | Mid | Replacement piston rings + a good few hours labour to disassemble the pump | $300 |
| Tank check valve is compromised | Low | A replacement check valve + 1 hour labour | $120 |
The costs are estimated on a rough labour cost of $80 and then the cheapest parts available on Amazon. It’s important to note that if you wish to buy the best parts that your costs will increase, and that if you can do the maintenance yourself, you will of course save labour costs.
Low severity indicates a quick fix and your air compressor will be back up and running with no subsequent issues. High severity indicates a longer fix with damage done to other components within the system.
What to check on an air compressor when the compressor will not build pressure?
Okay, so I’ve provided you with the most likely reasons for your air compressor not building pressure. Now, let me provide you with a more general check you can conduct and some other potential reasons.
Compressor Valve or Gasket
The air compressor reed or flapper valves (also known as the intake and pressure valves, or suction & discharge valves) are a common cause of why an air compressor will not build pressure.
The image below shows the valve plates (top of the photo) and reed valves (bottom left of photo) from one smaller air compressor. It also shows the gasket (bottom right in the photo).
If the compressor valves or gaskets are what the pump problem is, then it will be necessary to disassemble the pump to repair that problem. The issue is in determining whether it is the valves that is the problem.
One clue to a prospective valve problem is if air is exiting the intake port when the compressor is cycling. Removing the intake filter briefly will help determining this. If air is escaping there it’s a pretty good bet that the intake filter flapper is damaged in some manner.
Pressure Side Reed Valve or Pump Gasket
If it’s the pressure side reed valve, or if the pump gasket that is creating the problem, that’s harder to diagnose, yet the symptoms are the same. Either no pressure builds in the tank or the tank pressure increases to a certain point and then stays there, regardless of how long the compressor runs. That might even result in the compressor shutting itself down if the motor overheats.
The only real check here is to pull the pump head off and examine what’s what. If a reed valve is damaged, that’s usually pretty obvious. If the pump gasket its weakened and blowing open at a certain pressure, that’s harder to see.
The solution to the latter is to replace the gasket regardless of whether the reeds are damaged or not.
Compressor Power Supply
Do not underestimate the importance of a clean power supply and abundant power supply to the socket into which the compressor is plugged. Also, be aware of the size of the power cord that goes to the compressor.
If you are starving your air compressor of enough power supply, it is possible that the motor can generate a certain level of pressure in your tank, and then not exceed that pressure. Insufficient power reaching the motor will not allow it to work hard enough to build pressure against the increasing back-pressure from the tank. A too low amperage or too small power cord could be causing the problem.
If you must use an extension cord to power your air compressor, make sure it is heavy enough to feed the compressor over the length of that extension cord. Look at the power demand of the compressor motor, and make sure the cord is heavy enough gauge to deliver that power over its length. It is much preferred that you plug the power cord that came with the compressor right into the socket and not use an extension cord at all.
If you must use an extension cord rather than a longer air hose (that’s the much preferred option for supplying compressed air farther from a power outlet) Google “recommended wire gauge for electric motors” and ensure that the cord you wish to use is big enough.
Clean Compressor Power Supply?
Clean power also means that nothing else that might be powered by that same electrical circuit is trying to run at the same time your compressor is. Compressors will run best with full electrical supply from a dedicated circuit, over the shortest electrical cord possible!
It’s difficult sometimes to get a socket to which nothing else is connected. If that’s the case for where you plug in your compressor, determine what else is on that circuit, and try to ensure nothing else is running, or going to run, when you are planning on using the compressor.
Does Your Compressor Leak?
If it does, let your compressor come up to whatever pressure it will. If the pressure reaches a certain level and then won’t go past that pressure level, then either turn it off or unplug it.
Listen while the compressor is off, and watch the tank gauge as well. What you are checking for is an air leak that you won’t be able to hear when the compressor is running. If the pressure in the compressor tank is dropping and nothing is using air the leak may be bleeding off enough air that the compressor can’t build tank pressure past a certain point.
Economics of Air Compressor Repair
Let us consider the economics of compressor repair for a moment, I provided with a rough idea of the severity and cost implications in the earlier summary table.
I am astonished as to how the price of air compressors has declined over the last decade. Not the high-quality industrial air compressor, but the smaller, DIY home-use compressor.
To change out the reed valves on a small DIY type air compressor will take about one hour of shop time, according to the repair depot I spoke to. What do they charge; $80 / hour, … more?
Then there are the parts themselves. Many of the DIY type air compressors come from another country, and sourcing parts for these units is time consuming if parts are available at all.
So, do you spend the $100 or more dollars to fix your $150 compressor or not, considering that the replacement for it may be even less than what it cost when it was purchased. That’s a call you’ll have to make if your compressor begins to run without building full pressure. It may be worth investing in a brand new compressor.
FAQ’s (Frequently asked questions) about why an air compressor won’t build pressure
Please note that an air compressor that will not start is not necessarily the same issue as one that will not build pressure. There is a page on this site dedicated to air compressors that will not start, and it’s linked from the troubleshooting page, if that is the compressor issue you are facing.
A compressor that starts properly, but reaches a pressure level in the tank, and then it continues to run, and run, and run, but the pressure never goes any higher, if this is your compressor problem, here are some more things to check.
Usually, if an air compressor is taking long to the fill, it typically is either a piston seal problem, gasket failure, or an intake or pressure valve failure. These issues can be checked for by following the information provided in this page.
To increase your air pressure, so that the air compressor kicks on sooner before the pressure drops too low. You can adjust the lower adjustment screw on the pressure switch by following these 4 simplified steps:
1. Remove the plastic cover over the pressure limiter switch
2. Locate the two limiter switch . Tun the upper limit adjustment screw to raise the limit
3. Turn the compressor on and adjust the screw until you reach your desired pressure on the gauge. To maintain this pressure- turn the lower limiter adjustment screw clockwise to raise it so that the compressor kicks on sooner.
4. Connect your tool and charge the compressor, test the limits you have set and make adjustments if necessary.
It is important to ensure you consult the manual provided by the manufacturer or contact them directly to find out what your upper pressure limits are so that you do not exceed its safety limits.
To prime your air compressor you must add oil to both your receiver and the suction port of the compressor. It’s important to know the oil capacity of your compressor before starting, then begin with half being poured into the receiver and half into the suction port.
If you have an oilless compressor, you must fill the pump with fluid that acts as a coolant, to help prevent the pump from overheating. The fluid will help remove the air and stop the compressor from running dry, which may lead to mechanical seal failure or even serious damage to the pump’s components.
It can typically take anywhere in between 2-5 minutes for an air compressor to build up pressure. It shouldn’t take any longer than this. The greater the CFM of your compressor the quicker the compressor can pump air into its tank. Also the larger your tank, the longer the time needed to fill it due to the increased volume.
If the compressor motor is still running after the air pressure in the tank reaches the normal cut out air pressure level, then look to your pressure switch first as the source of the compressor problem.
If your air pressure in the tank is not reaching the cut out pressure limit then, the compressor cannot shut off and it will keep running.
You must look to the intake valve or an internal gasket leak as this possible source, visit our page Air compressor will not shut off for more information.
The pressure switch controls the air on an air compressor by determining how much air pressure is needed to run a pneumatic device that you wish to connect.
The pressure switch is the most basic and important setting on your compressor.
Reader Questions
by mike (baldwin)
My air compressor gets air from the motor but don’t put any in the tank.
Gets air from the motor
l
Mike, I have no idea what you mean when you say your compressor gets air from the motor?
Are you saying that the pump is pulling air into the intake, and you’ve pulled the line to the tank from the pump and are getting good pressure out of the pump?
Maybe you could take a moment to explain further, and add a photo or two of your compressor to help others help you?
Compressor
There’s good pressure coming from the hose. But it’s not building up in the tank
There’s good pressure coming from the hose
Still puzzled, Mike.
If you’ve got good pressure in the hose, then your compressor is able to keep up with the demand of your air tool.
It is likely then, but I’m really not sure from what you’ve posted, that the compressor can supply the tool but if you are using the air tool, there is not enough air capacity to fill the tank at the same time?
Is that it?
What happens if you just run the air compressor?
Also, are you sure the tank gauge is working? What pressures are the two gauges showing; the tank gauge and the regulator gauge?
Get some help with a compressor that will not build pressure!
You can certainly use the form to ask a question about what to do when your compressor will not build pressure.
Please provide as much information about what your compressor as possible. The make, the model, the age of the compressor, how much it is used, the type of power supply… anything that you can think of that will help us (myself and the many visitors) help you with this air compressor problem.
If you’ve got a suggestion about solving the compressor problem that someone else has posted on this page, please add a comment if you would.
I have an old napa 80 gallon compressor with a 5 horse electric motor . It seems to not build up pressure as fast as it did last yr . I have no air leaks oil leaks and plenty of 240 power on its own circuit . Seems pump and supply line is running hotter than normal as well .
A friend has a Sanborn 60 gal.
Model G500BPL60V compressor. On the side of the pump there is a little hole that is letting air escape. It does not seem to even have threads for anything to screw into it. The hole is about the side of a deck screw and is located directly below the 1/2 inch air line that supplies the tank. Is this just a flaw in the pump or what goes there???
Sounds like a broken-off line for the unloader, normally on the pressure switch. It should be a 1/4 inch compression fitting. The other end of the fitting screws into the head.
The unloader in the switch would normally be closed, stopping the “leak”.
When the pump stops, it’s supposed to open, relieving pressure on the head for an easier start-up.
I have a (Campbell Hausfeld) wl6500 compressor which has served me well. Recently, the pressure wont go above 60psi. It starts no problem the first time in the day, it pumps till 60psi then stops. The pump no longer kicks in when the pressure drops. I have to put the switch in the off position for about a minute and then the motor will start and I again can build up pressure. Thanks for your time. I will need to make a decision as to whether to try and repair or replace. This is a vertical / horizontal model which… Read more »
Had a power outage while it was running. Motor sound changed. When I got power back it runs but won’t build pressure.
What exactly is “it”?
Do you know if there was a surge, or just simple loss of power?
I have a craftsman 5 hp 22gal. Model # 919.165220 always has made a lot of noise, but now it only gets up to 40 psi an stops building pressure, motor stays running, air intake is not blowing air out, it has a o-ring gasket that looked to be okay, any suggestions ???
It could still be the exhaust valve, and don’t know which o-ring you mean. On these oil-less units, it’s usually the piston cup (or ring) failed.
You probably need to remove the rod and piston to check.
Good luck.
My Campbell Hausfeld compresses will not give any pressure . The gauge only goes 20 than stops . Can you help me please
If you tell us what model you have, almost certainly.
If you can’t find a model number, we can probably figure it out from some pix.
Senco PC0970 probably 10 years old. Will only blow air out of the cold start valve which is on top of the pump head. Tank check valve is operating properly . I have replaced the cold start valve, no help. It does not blow air out of the air filter.
If the “cold start” valve is good, this suggests a leak either in the head or on the line to the tank. Also could be a stuck unloader, but that’s not real likely.
Plug where the start valve is and see what happens then.
I’m guessing it’ll get some pressure, and then you can try to find the leak.
Good luck.
I tried that, it builds about 15psi and that’s it. No leaks. I can shut it off and it will hold that pressure even with the cold start valve opened up.
I’m starting to think like you say, that there is a problem in the head. I just don’t know if it’s worth the time and money to repair. Thanks for any suggestions!
Doug, thanks for your help. I pulled the head, and the exhaust reed valve is broken. My only questions now are, where can I find them and what are the torque specs on the head bolts? I can’t seem to find anything.
“…the exhaust reed valve is broken.” Can you send a pic?
Looks like you could make one from a feeler gauge or something.
Search “senco cw0274” for the valve *assembly* with gaskets. You can’t buy just the reed. If you have the type of gasket shown, and given the aluminum head, I’d just tighten the bolts down to snug and maybe a 1/8 turn more. Or you might try contacting Senco and see if they can give you the torque.
I found them for about 13-24 bucks.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
I have a 6 gallon pancake ridges compressor that runs but won’t build pressure. It’s model # OF60150HB. 150 psi and has a remove tank from service date set for 12/2028. Anyone had this problem with this specific air compressor and if so boy I’d sure like to know what the problem is because I need it for work and it’s not that old. 120v. Please let me know if y’all have any ideas as things are slow right now and would rather salvage this one until things pick up. That’s so much for your time!!
I take it’s not making grinding noises…
So, take a look under the cover at the motor-pump assembly. You might just have a busted belt.
If that’s not it, well, what else can you tell us?
I have a Kobalt 8 gal oil free air compressor model #0300841. fills to 150 PSI. I have had this for just over 5 years purchased new. It started to not fill the tank all the way. It will run normally on start at 0 pressure, fill the tank to less than 100 psi and the motor stalls and then hums until I turn it off. The run capacitor has tested good. The check valve has a plug in the valve at the tank. I pulled that plug with no air leak. I pulled the start capacitor and am going… Read more »
I found that this is a power issue within my house. When I run this compressor in my garage, it will not fill the tank to the 150 PSI max, but if I run it in the house, it does fill to the max pressure.
Good catch.
Are you going to be able to get good power into the garage?
I have a Goodwrench GM 5005 5 HP 25 gal tank air compressor that only builds to 75 psi and does not stop running. I only feel suction through the intake. I am thinking it might be the check valve going into the tank. What do you think? All suggestions appreciated.
Hey Brad, all of the typical reasons why an air compressor runs but stops building pressure are listed on this same page you posted your question on. When you read it, what checks did you do, and what did you find on your compressor, please?
1991 VT5588704 hausfeld 230v 5hp 60 gal dead reliable all these years. One day the motor spun but no pressure -found broken belt-purchased new ebay belt claimed for the VT was 49″(returning for correct 50″) but was barely able get it on motor pulley with 1/2″ play. Fired it up with pressure building to 30lbs only then belt started coming off big pulley, ran straight edge small pulley out 1/4″ (I’ve never touched anything less oil change on it since purchase). Tapped/set pulley in towards motor 1/4″, fired it up, belt started coming off again. Removed air filter cap for… Read more »
Have you verified the new belt’s cross-section? Sounds like it doesn’t fit.
And no, if the valves looked OK (not chipped and laying flat) I don’t think you need the kit. You might take a look at the tank check valve, though.
The new belt is the correct 9/16″ width/6 groove and best I can tell, the pulleys have always been out of alignment ? Per Bills comments at the start of this thread and having a oil leak for years, I need to at least re gasket the pump and see what happens.
Huh. The pulleys run true, I suppose? All else being right, it should just squeal/slip rather than come off, no? So if the pulleys are right, the belt must be skewed, it seems. Maybe the 50 inch one will be better.
it climbed up on the outer pump pulley lip so shut it down. the pulleys are true so see what happens when the 50″ belt gets here.
50″ belt works perfectly :<)
Yay! ?????
Thanks for updating. Any idea if the first one was warped or something?
motor was at the end of the base stop with 49″ so time to buy a gasket kit to address the pump oil weepage and see if it build the pressure up ?
Let’s review:
You were getting pressure, but then the belt broke. New belt ran off pulley, second belt stays on and you get full normal pressure now? Or not?
Oil seep has been there for some time. Is it bad enough to require adding oil to the pump?
If not, I think I might go ahead and buy the kit, but save it for a bigger leak.
But if you are not getting normal pressure, then go ahead an install it.
ran 50″ belt for a longer time with 1/2″ play came off again-installed again climbed up inside edge of pulley. I watched the belt as it ran straight then it would flutter then back to straight Whew ! Oil level is fine-valves sucking air as designed. In the am, I’ll reset small pulley to where it was when purchased and try again.
Problems are solved. Every fitting was leaking was the problem and once fixed, the gauge climbed to 60 lbs then the pop off valve blew so I knew something had changed so installed new gauge and watched it climb to 120 then shut off. The belt problem was solved by pulling back the motor as hard as I could then tighten the bolts..works like a champ now. I also installed a new lefoo LF10-1H switch which is a perfect fit. thanks :<)
Good it’s working. Bad gauge is a tad unusual.
I’m a bit concerned about the belt tension, is there any play left? Too tight could cause bearing troubles later.
Thanks for letting us know.
I scribed the motor mount to base, so pulling back hard, didn’t gain much less the belt doesn’t come off now with play. Now to address the pump oil leaks. Great to have it working again.
“Great to have it working again.”
I bet…keep us posted please…
my hitachi 8gal gass compressor. today a hose blew off this fitting for like 10 seconds before I got it back on and then now I only get 50lbs of pressure. do I start taking the motor appart? or do I just buy a new unloader valve cause is that whats breaks when something like that happens?
Sorry Skylar… do you mean gasoline motor powered Hitachi? I don’t know what a gass compressor is.
I don’t know what fitting the hose blew off of, as if you intended to upload a photo, none arrived. If it is gasoline driven, and it was the throttle unloader hose that blew off, I would think that an adjustment of it is in order, but don’t know for sure.
Perhaps someone else can offer guidance.
sorry I was bad with details. yes gasoline. and I was just talking about the regular air hose connector fitting, it just came off while I was working and after I fixed it real quick is when I got the old 50lbs of pressure in the tank. I turn the red knob on it usually to 60lbs to 100 to use different nail guns and now its just stuck at 50lbs. I really don’t wanna start taking the wrong thing apart if in the motor isn’t even the problem. I was just wondering is there is a common thing that… Read more »
OK, I see in the photo (I put the two posts together and only used the one photo) that you’ve circled the pump, the intake filter, what looks to be the unloader / throttle feed line, and the regulator handle. The regulator air hose fitting you refer to is one of the two couplers to the right of the regulator gauge, right, and one of those came off? Not the black hose from the fitting in the vertical pipe that plumbs air from the pump to the tank? At the end of the tank on the right is the tank… Read more »
the air hose fitting I was talking about is just one of the connectors of the three air hoses I have connected to each other. the problem happened after a hose clamp slipped off and I put it back on. Yes your right about being able to turn the pressure down, just not higher then 50. and the gauge on the right will say its at 50psi also but when I turn the regulator down the gauge on the right wont go down like the other one its weird. thanks again
The gauge on the right shows the tank pressure, and should only go down when the pressure in the tank goes down. Adjusting the regulator (red knob) pressure does not affect the tank pressure.
From what I’ve read it sounds like it is NOT the regulator, NOT the tank gauge, but more than likely the throttle/unloader is out of whack. Have a go at Doug’s question, if you would.
If it’s gas, when it gets to 50 psi does it idle down or keep going full throttle?
And yes, please send model and pictures of what blew off, in any case.
hi, yea it for sure just keeps going full throttle I diddnt notice that. the thing that blew off I was just talking about the hose clamp on one of my air hoses connected to each other and after that is when the problem started so I figured that’s a start. thanks
OK, so there’s certainly a leak somewhere, almost surely unrelated to the hose blowing off unless it hit something on the pump/tanks. So: Does the tank hold the 50psi or does it drain off pretty quickly? If it drains, could be a stuck open check valve (they call it “Auto unloading valve”) where the pump feeds into the tank, or on the other side where the hose feeds the gauge-regulator-quick connects. So you can check those areas if it leaks down. Or: If it does not drain, then probably there’s a blown gasket or maybe valves in the pump. Bummer… Read more »
Sad to say, I know what you mean.
Happy to say glad you got it sorted.
You’re welcome. And thanks for the update.