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How to rewire a 3.5 hp 15 Gal Model 919.152912 for 220v
I have a 16 year old 3.5 hp 15 gallon Craftsman compressor that I would like to change over from 110v to 220v. The motor cover says that it is rated to 220v and a sticker on the side says to check the manual for how to rewire for 220v but I don’t see anything in the manual that says how to do it.
I pulled the cover off where the cord connects to the motor but there are only two wire running to the motor which makes me think that the motor can only be wired for 110v (I recently rewired my table saw – non-Craftsman – to 220v and it had 4 wires running to the motor).
Is there some way to wire my compressor for 220v or am I stuck at 110v?
Tim, if the motor is rated for 110 V only, then that’s what you get, chum. I suspect that the two wires are indicating that.
I am not an electrician, and I do not rebuild or wire motors, so cannot offer electrical advice.
I do think that if your motor is taken to a motor rebuild shop, they may give you a value for it against the purchase of a 220, and, at the same time, verify the voltage.
Craftsman oi l less compressor destroyed 2 sets of pistons in 1 year!
by Jim Henderson
(Walnut, CA, USA)
I have a 60 gallon single stage oil less Craftsman compressor. In about 1 year of intermittent running, it has literally destroyed 3 out of 4 pistons/rods.
It was originally used for light duty intermittent factory use. When it blew the first 2 rods in less than a year, Sears replaced the whole unit with an oiled compressor, no problems.
I replaced the two broken pistons/rods and have been using it in my garage maybe once a month for a few months. But it sat for a year before I had wired in the 240 line. Most of the time it runs up to full pressure and then on for a minute or two every hour or so while using it. So wild guess is very few hours on the rebuild. But, I did leave it on over-nite a few times and found out it would cycle off and on maybe every few hours. But just for a minute or two. So still low hours.
Blew the third piston/rod this weekend. Snapped clean in half about 1 inch above the “big end” of the connecting rod. There is some signs of the side of the rod beating against something a few times, I suspect this may have happened just shortly before failure. Haven’t found out yet what it was beating against. No signs of corrosion failure etc.
Short story… Is this typical for this “Industrial” compressor from Sears to need new pistons on a regular basis? It costs something like $150 in parts the last time I replaced them. I hate to throw away what otherwise seems to be a nice compressor, but can’t afford $150 yearly maintenance on a compressor. Alternatively anyone convert this model to oiled compressors? How, and is it worth the effort?
Any help would be appreciated.
How to replace Counter weight/bearing assembly in 919.165050?
Counter weight/bearing assembly broke at Rod. Got new counter weight/bearing assembly. Rod is in good condition.
HOW TO REPLACE? Do I need to remove piston? Do I need a press to get bearing out of rod? There is a torx screw on bottom of rod, below a gap in the casting. But above the gap looks solid where bearing is at.
My 919.165050 is fixed!
Had a mechanic friend help me out replacing bearing assembly. Bearing/counterweight slides off easily when small torx screw is removed from bottom of rod. Piston can stay in head or be slid out and put back in with ease. Works like new.
Regarding your 919.165050 Counterwieght / bearing – Caution!
I have a 919.154330 that may be similar to yours. Glad to hear it’s working fine but you may want to check something closely.
There is a small set screw that holds the counterweight/bearing onto the motor shaft. It only sits on a flat spot on the shaft.
After 20 yrs of use, mine got loose and scored the shaft!
I was able to save it but was really vexed that such a tiny part nearly trashed my compressor.
A fresh case hardened screw(black)and some locktite #721 is a great preventive insurance tactic.