Ingersoll Rand Tow Behind Compressors

Published Categorized as Ingersoll Rand 39 Comments on Ingersoll Rand Tow Behind Compressors

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There continues to be a substantial number of questions about Ingersoll Rand tow behind compressors – also known as construction or portable air compressors, on this website.

Since it is clear that lots of owners are having a difficult time with them, I have created this page dedicated to the range of Ingersoll Rand tow behind compressors to provide a place for owners with problems to post a question, and for those that own them to help others if they wish.

Ingersoll Rand C185 Tow Behind Air Compressor
Ingersoll Rand C185 Tow Behind Air Compressor

With tow behind air compressors, there are a couple of things to make clear when you post. One is how that air compressor generates compressed air – whether it’s a reciprocating compressor pump or a rotary screw type pump for example, and the other is what is the power plant running the compressor – diesel, gasoline etc., along with the actual model of that compressor.

On an electrically driven compressor often the motor driving the compressor pump shuts off when the tank pressure reaches the cut out pressure setting. With a construction type tow behind compressor, the engine driving the pump never shuts down during air use, rather, the pressure switch operates an unloader that throttles the motor speed up and down as air is being used and when more compressed air is demanded. These controls clearly are an issue for folks, and you will find posts about them.

As always, if your IR tow behind is under warranty, your compressor dealer is the first place to go for help. If that doesn’t do it for you, then, may contact IR directly if you think they will help, though I expect the frequent response is a referral back to the dealer. Ingersoll Rand contact info is:

Energy Systems (IR)
800A Beaty Street
Davidson, NC 28036
P: 877-IR-POWER (477-6937)
Email: [email protected]

For information and manuals you can visit for all tools, fluids, and air product manuals and technical documents.

A Continental-L-Head-F-163 Overhaul Manual can be downloaded by clicking here.

If you have a problem with your Ingersoll Rand tow behind air compressor, and you have already reviewed the existing submissions for any answer there, please use the form at the end of this page to post your question.

Can you help others with their Ingersoll Rand tow behind air compressor issues? Please see the existing posts and add a comment to help if you can.

Do you have a manual for an Ingersoll Rand tow behind compressor in digital form. I’d be happy to post it here for all to download. You can upload a PDF using the form at the end of the page.

My thanks on behalf of all Ingersoll Rand tow behind air compressor owners and users.


Some visitor questions and replies abut Ingersoll Rand tow behind compressors:

Ingersoll Rand P380 has oil in air

Oil intake on Ingersoll Rand 720

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Need a parts drawing for a 150 gyro flo. (90% sure it’s a 150) Has a g193 continental engine. I really need to change the separator tank filter. Any help? I’ve been googling this on and off for years with no luck..

where do I find parts for an old gyroflo 150

Did you find any sources? I’m in the same boat..

1995 tow behind IR 175 with Deutz Diesel engine . Unit makes air just fine . Have loud knocking noise coming from rear of engine area . Noise is intermittent but seems to be getting worse

There’s a coupling between the engine driveshaft and airend.
If you’re lucky, it might just be loose, but more likely it’s about to break.

I have a 3 cylinder john deere diesel 100 cfm tow behind air compressoer,runs for 10 minutes and then blows fuse and will nt restart chaned fuel filter and hose

hi have a ingersoll rand P100 pull behind that runs on a deutz F2l1011 engine , it starts fine but has low presuure mechanic blammed a blow down valve bought one but problem still pesisting .

How low?
What’s the engine doing?
Does it *stay* at whatever pressure if you open a service valve?

Hi, I have a 94’ ingersoll-rand 185 pull behind unit. Worked fine until yesterday. For some reason when you turn it on it runs really high, same high (speed) when you push the service air button before it lowers its idle to normal. It runs high and nothing happens, you push the service air button and nothing happens not is there trapped pressure anywhere, as if the air compressor is not even connected to the engine. It just turns on and stays idling high. Need some help….

mike I am having the exact issue did you happen to find a solution to this issue?

I have a IR Tow Behind 100 CFM that works fine until this morning when it turned the High Disch Temperature light on, what do you thing it could be?
I also noted that with the bypass fuel pump push in when crank it it stay on runing but as soon as i release it, it turns off.
i greatly appreciate any help.

So, did anything other than this problem happen? Location, ambient temperature, etc.?
Presuming you have adequate compressor oil, are you getting normal pressure and engine operation?
Then, how long before the high discharge temp comes on?

Hi, Doug and thank you for taken the time to reply to me, i notice that couple times the oil come out thru the air discharge, i went out to work, i did two blow out with it when i went to do the third it didn’t want to start, and that when i see the High disch Temperature light on? engine is a Ford 4 Cylinder Gasoline, that is all i know about
Thank you so much for your help.

Sincerely: Beris R Rohttis

How’s the oil level in the receiver/separator tank? At least some of the oil to cool/lube the airend comes from the scavenger tube. That’s also what helps keep oil out of the air. Have you ever serviced the separator? Do you have the manual? Now that it’s cooled off, “Excessive Oil In Air: High Oil Level Out of Level > 15 degrees Clogged Scavenge Orifice Scavenge Tube Blocked Defective Scavenge Check Valve Sep. Tank Blown Down Too Quickly Defective Minimum Pressure Valve” “Excessive Compressor Oil Temperature: Ambient Temperature Too High Out of Level > 15 degrees Low Oil Level Dirty… Read more »

Last edited 2 years ago by Doug in

I have a 125 Ingersoll Rand tow behind compressor and when you shut the air down the compressor will shut down without turning it off unless you leave the the second air valve cracked open?

Shut down in what manner? Sudden stop or?
Does the pressure regulate OK otherwise?
Is this a new problem? I.E., has it worked OK for you before?

Pressure is good otherwise it will cause the engine to just down completely if the air valve is not open to bleed air

Please answer my questions.
I want to help you.

Last edited 2 years ago by Doug in

1991 Ingersoll Rand 185 (JD diesel) tow behind compressor problems. I purchased it used with about 3800hrs on it. Ran fine for several years with my ‘dustless blasting’ setup. Took it in for servicing to a local ‘rental’ shop who I knew rented them. (so you would think that they would KNOW!) Well, about 5-6yrs ago had issues that it would start up fine, but when you let go of the ignition key, it would die. I replaced a ‘relay’ with a NAPA one, and that seemed to fix it for the next several years. (I say that this type… Read more »

Well, that’s not right.
(I know, couldn’t resist)
So, when you got the hi temp warning, were you holding in the key in start/warmup?
And the thing with the sensor – did you disconnect the harness wiring both ends?
You might try testing the switch to see if it “acts funny” when operated.
Here’s a manual from ’05 that may give you some ideas. The instruments are probably different, but the principles are the same.

Good luck.

I have a 175 Ingersal -rand pull behind diesel compressor, I seem to be getting 30-40 psi on my gauge by my blaster, should be around 100psi, as soon as it starts up the high temp light is on but is not over heating by any means, would a bad temp switch limit the psi out put????

“as soon as it starts up the high temp light is on ”
High temp of what? And you mean as soon as you start blasting, or what?
Usually that would cause shutdown. Are you sure nothing is overheating?
Is the pressure at the pump dropping that low also?
Have you used it successfully in the past?

I have a Ingersoll Rand towable gasoline compressor says on side 100 maybe that’s the model number Carburator sticking any idea for getting one or rebuilding it

Gee, I dunno. Maybe take to an old-timer’s engine shop?
Any idea what the engine is? Never mind it’s in an I-R, you need engine info.

I have an Ingersoll rand gas compressor model P100-w-f. The motor runs fine and it will build pressure with the discharge valve closed, however, when I open the discharge valve the pressure drops to 45 psi. The discharge valve does not want to stay in however there is no significant change when I hold it in. The engine idols up fine. I took the inlet hose off with the engine running and discharge valve open. The inlet valve was open a bout 1/4 inch. Not sure what to check. Thank you!
Best Regards, Rudy Musclow

Rudy –
Sounds like your service air button is broke, for one thing, but I could be wrong.
I don’t have a manual for the gas model, but it should be the same as the diesel.
Is your air cylinder working? Checked for leaks? Then you can try to adjust it, but that may not be possible with the button popping out. Read the attached, and see if it helps.

Let us know what you find. Good luck.

I believe I have eliminated everything but the air end. Does anybody have experience rebuilding air ends. The unit only puts out about 45 psi when the discharge valve is open, what typically causes this in the air end? Is rebuilding the air end a Diy project? I’m a pretty good mechanic. I’m not sure the unit is worth having it sent out to be rebuilt. Thank you!

So it’s giving a 100psi or so service valve closed, the service air button will stay in until you open the discharge, and then it revs, but pressure drops to 45 and the service air button pops??
Have you considered that with the service valve open, you may be exceeding the capacity of the unit? Can you put an actual tool on there, and run it?
Or at least, crack the valve slowly, if you haven’t already?

Doug, Thanks so much. I bought this machine not running and have never operated one before. I bought it to run a rock drill for some fencing. I put a 90 lb jack hammer on it and it stayed at 80 lbs with the jack hammer operating. I am thinking I am good now, glad I did not tear into the air end. I thought it should maintain 100 psi with the air valve wide open. I’m learning. Thanks

Doug, Thank you for the information. I never owned a portable compressor before. I bought this one not running. I have a fencing project on our farm where I need to drill post holes in sandstone with a rock drill. I was under the mistaken impression that it should maintain 100 psi with the discharge valve open. I hooked up a 90 lb jack hammer and it maintains 60 lbs pressure while the hammer is running. So I think it will be good to use. Now that it looks usable I’m going to change all the filters and fluids. Thanks… Read more »

Sure. Did you go through the adjustments? Sounds like it could be a little out, though I don’t know if it’s rated for the drill you have.
Anyway, if it’s working well enough you may as well get on with your fencing.

As always, good luck.

That’s the plan, I did make the adjustments, didn’t help much, replaced the discharge switch. Still think the air end is not putting out enough air and needs to be rebuilt at some point, the setup instructions make it sound like it should maintain 100 psi with the valve all the way open. I changed the cooling oil and the separator tank was really clean. Thanks again!

Hi there. I have a Ingersoll Rand p375 , it will make air all the time like you have the regular cranked all the way in. But when u back out the reg it just continues to build tons of air until it blows off . When service air button is pushed it revs up like normal . But it always seems to be engaged. P375 constantly builds air. Even when disengaged. I need help. Any is greatly appreciated.

It’s not unloading. Possible causes:

⭐Malfunctioning inlet unloader.
Inspect valve.

⭐Malfunctioning pressure regulator.
Check pressure regulator. Check regulation lines for leaks.

⭐Ice in regulation lines and/or regulation orifice.
Apply heat to lines and or orifice. Check operation of DC electric heaters, if equipped.

⭐Plugged vent leak. (it’s supposed to leak)
Clean and/or replace.

Good luck.

P375WCU the drive coupler keeps going out is the anyway to stop this

Maybe check the alignment? Bent chassis? How long do they last?

the unit is 1997 ? unit Run smooth Full Load ,but no load very rough any ideas why .

Marty, sounds like the the engine idle might need adjusting, I’d start with that.

Marty, are you Martin Kopp? If not, it would be best to start a new post, although my reply below is still valid.