Husky Air Compressor Not Reaching Cut Off Pressure – Solutions & Reasons

Husky air compressors, like any air compressor, may start up and appear to be working as normal, only for them to then undergo difficulties in reaching their cut-off pressure. This article will provide you with the most common reasons why your Husky air compressor won’t reach cut-off pressure, along with existing reader questions & responses.

Table of Contents

• Reasons Husky Air Compressor Not Reaching Cut Off Pressure
• FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)
• Reader Questions & Responses

Reasons Husky Air Compressor Not Reaching Cut Off Pressure

The most likely reason why your Husky air compressor is not reaching cut-off pressure is due to failing or compromised parts. These include:

• Gasket
• Intake valve
• Piston seal
• Pump pressure valve

It is very possible that your compressor appears to be working fine, but during cycling, the air is unable to flow into the tank due to a failed gasket. Another possibility is a failing air intake valve, where the air will blow right back out of the intake valve instead of being properly drawn into the compressor.

If the piston rings or their seals are flawed, the pumps will lose pressure and efficiency, resulting in a lack of pressure being built in the compressor. The pump pressure valve could be faulty, allowing air that flows into the tank through it to be drawn right back out of the tank.

Other possibilities include system leaks, for more information on these reasons visit our Air Compressor Won’t Reach Cut-Out Pressure Troubleshooting guide!

FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

Reader Questions & Responses

Husky Air Compressor Won’t Reach Cut Off Pressure – Husky Air Compressor Troubleshooting

Question

My Husky compressor is 3 years old. When you plug it in (directly to the wall) it starts and makes it to about 70psi (it is rated for 150psi) then just stops. Husky Air Compressor Won’t Build Pressure.

I listen for air leaking and there is none.

I have taken the plastic shroud of the unit to get to the motor and wires. when it stops, I put a voltmeter on the pressure check valve (located directly after the on/off switch), on the outgoing side, it reads 115v. after that, the wire disappears in the motor and I can’t find it.

If you unplug the compressor and wait, sometimes it will come on again and continue to climb in pressure. (yesterday I got it up to 125 before it shut down)

I bled some pressure off to see if it would start back up and it didn’t. I’m pretty sure I heard the unloader valve release a little pressure when the motor shuts off.

Not sure what to do next… I could find a ‘button’ to push for a thermal overload.

The only else I can see on the unit is 2 capacitors and whatever the bronze-colored thing is in the picture I attached

Thanks for the help!!!!!!

Response

See the page on checking capacitors on this site.

The bronze thing is the centrifugal switch that cuts the start cap out as the motor gets to speed.

Please let us know what you find in a comment.

Questioner

I checked both the capacitors as it said to… I used a digital multimeter, set it to DC……..

the volts would go up to 3v, then I switched which tabs the leads were on and it would too -2.8v. I switched back and forth multiple times on each of the 2 capacitors….both seemed fine

Any other thoughts out there?

Response

Does that mean you got to where you switch to ohms?

And watch the ohms go up, and reverse, and see the ohms go negative and then back up?

Questioner

So, since I wasn’t good at checking ohms, I bought a new pressure switch, start capacitor, and run capacitor. put all the in, and it still does the same thing……runs for a bit then shuts off without reaching 150psi and won’t come back on even if I pull the bleed-off valve…….

What else is there to replace?

Thanks for the help… this is super frustrating.

Response

If power is passing the switch to the motor circuit even with the compressor off, it points to a motor failure.

If power is not passing the switch to the motor circuit when the compressor stops, and if the tank pressure is below the normal cut-out pressure setting, then it’s likely the switch that’s failed.

That you have replaced the start caps, the pressure switch, the run cap, and assuming that all were installed correctly and are the correct replacements, and your compressor shuts off before the tank pressure reaches cut out, and the pressure switch is still passing power to the motor circuit, then it’s electrical, and all else is new, the problem must lie in the compressor motor.

Centrifugal switch perhaps or the motor itself opening a short when the windings warm up.

Response

I feel ya.

So, from a cold start, it goes for some timeless than enough to fill to cutoff (or even to cut-off)? and won’t restart for a while.

How’s the motor temp right after it stops? Any odor?

Can you watch the centrifugal switch while it’s running? Does it operate shortly after the motor starts?

Questioner

From a cold start, I reached 100psi, (the new pressure valve says 150)

the centrifugal switch comes on simultaneously with the motor starting. the motor sounds normal and up to speed.

I kept my hand on the motor the whole time. it got really warm but not hot enough that I had to take my handoff. I didn’t notice any smells (like something burning or melting)

thanks again for the help…..what else should I do?

Response

Well, as Bill said, it’s likely the motor.

Is there a motor shop near you? You could take it there to have it checked. But before you do that, have you got a model number for this machine and/or the motor itself?

There’s something about this that doesn’t seem quite right to me but I’m not pinning it down, and having models may help me figure it out.

Questioner

Written on the side of the tank
Husky model # 947265
f/n 2003669
Made 06-2012

Hope that helps

I didn’t see anything written on the motor itself

Response

OK, so it’s one of those integrated motor/pump types.

It’s sounding like one of two things – either the new run cap is bad, or there is a bad winding in the motor, or it may be there is a bad connection from the run cap to the motor.

So, with the unit unplugged and cooled off, put your meter across the run cap, and if no voltage, check ohms. It should be close to zero, as in an ohm or two, perhaps. You’re looking at the cap with the motor winding in parallel.

Disconnect the meter (you can leave one lead connected if that’s easier) and turn the plugin and turn on the compressor. Wait for it to stop.

Unplug the compressor and recheck for volts, and if no volts, check ohms again. Does it read the same as the first time? I suspect you’ll see the same as when you check the capacitor by itself – if so, then the motor winding is opening under heat stress.

Let us know what you find.

And to be clear, the motor is running, yes?

Question

Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I have the exact same issue with the same compressor.

If you have any questions regarding husky air compressors not reaching pressure, please leave a comment below, with a photo if applicable, so that someone can help you!