by Stan
(Mesa, Az. USA)
Last use I had to drain the tank to get it to work. It worked for one use. Now it does not start. I have drained the tank again, but the motor won’t start even after I press reset button. normally the reset button works.
Central Pneumatic model 95386
Central Pneumatic model 95386
Central Pneumatic model 95386 pressure switch
I plugged it in and turned on the compressor and it ran for about 10 seconds and stopped. In those seconds it seemed to run real slow. The oil level is perfect and clean. I used it a total of 8 times for sandblasting a ships wheel. Had just a small portion left to blast and it died. HELP ! Model # 95386.
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Stan, tell me about the power supply. How are you getting power to your air compressor, please, as a comment here?
What is happening when you plug in or turn on your compressor? Any noise, pressure switch trips… anything?
If nothing is happening, at all…
-are you sure you are getting power?
-if you have an on/off button, is it set to on?
-do you have a re-set button on your motor? If so, push it.
-is the pressure in the tank below the cut-in pressure of your pressure switch?
Can the “cut-in” pressure be set too high and prevent the compressor from starting?
Conceivably. Depends on the compressor type and design.
Is it *trying* to start? What happens?
I’m working on a Central Pneumatic Model# 95386. It has no capacitor but seems to need one. Scenario Symptoms:I found that if I release all the air from the tank with the pressure relief valve it starts and runs at the normal rpm. I tested it using it for some stapling of screen on a chicken coop. I used it until the air pressure was low enough for the compressor to try to start back up again to refill what was used. What I saw (actually heard) was the compressor turn over once or twice or thrice and then quit… Read more »
“It has no capacitor but seems to need one.” Incorrect. Item 21. “What is a normal pressure to set this tank for normal uses such as using a staple gun or nail gun?” Outlet pressure (not tank) generally is 90 or less. Check the manual for the tool. However – the spec says ->Auto Shut-Off @ 115 PSI ->Restart @ 80 PSI So for consistency with a nailer/stapler you’d want to set the regulator a couple PSI below 80. If it is trying to restart above 80 psi, that could be a factor, but check the capacitor first. It could… Read more »
I’m not sure what this means in your reply: ““It has no capacitor but seems to need one.”
Incorrect. Item 21.”
There is no capacitor on this compressor so I’m not sure why you’re telling me to check it…perhaps we have a misunderstanding. I do not have a manual for the compressor either.
I will figure out how to set it to your recommended parameters.
I appreciate your help with this matter!!!
I’m attaching a screenshot of the parts diagram for the 95386. If you don’t have item 21, a capacitor, you either have a different model, or its capacitor is missing.
I’m also attaching the manual which you can access by clicking this link.
Let us know…
This image is the actual compressor I’m working on and it has no capacitor. From what I have gathered, it never had one. I don’t see a place where it could have been installed. Could it be an earlier model perhaps? Perhaps I’m still missing it. Anyway, I believe I might have found the problem. I’m not sure what the valve is called… I’ve purchased one off of EBAY and they are calling it a check valve. I’ve seen “load valve” in the parts list… not sure… Of course, just like the compressors, it will take a month to come… Read more »
Well, I don’t think that’s the problem, but we’ll see. Yes, that’s commonly called a check valve, but it also has a port that is to go to the unloader valve, which in this (and most) cases, is in the pressure switch. Food for thought: If you don’t hear a whoosh of air from the switch unloader when the pump stops, the unloader may be the problem. Often, when people hear air escaping continually from there, they think they have a bad pressure switch. But no, it’s the check valve leaking. Perhaps in your case, it really is the pressure… Read more »
“From what I have gathered, it never had one. I don’t see a place where it could have been installed. Could it be an earlier model perhaps?”
Perhaps. My experience with HFT is if it’s a different design or even the same design from a different supplier, they give it a new model number.
I am embarrased to say that I have found that there is a capacitor. I now have to find a way to test the capacitor and I only have a multimeter without this function. I am including the photo of the capacitor which shows its identification. My first thought was that it is showing it is a 150 microfarad unit rated at 240 VAC. I am not used to seeing something rated at a higher rated voltage than what the unit runs at and this compressor runs at 120 VAC (common household outlet voltage). Is there a different way to… Read more »
“Is there a different way to test the unit without having that particular testing function on a multimeter? Can a type of OHMs test be possible?”
You betcha.
The rating is double because it’s going to be “fighting” a brief *output* from the motor in order to do it’s job. The magnets / coils act as a generator for a cycle or two before it gets running.
Good luck.
I’m working on one now that starts out at a greatly reduced speed, runs and then trips the reset button. While working on it and draining the water out of the tank, I had to release all the air pressure from the tank. Once I put it back together, the compressor started back up and ran at its normal much higher speed. I used it with a staple gun and found while using it and the pressure dropped far enough for it to automatically start up to regain pressure but it only turned over a few times and stopped and… Read more »