Compressor only gets to 50 PSI?

by tony

i bough a compressor for 50 dollars its 3:5 20 gal. it runs but only gets to 50 psi is this normal?

My cambell hausfeld 3:5 20 gallon compressor modelwl600702aj only gets to 50 psi?
No Tony, it isn't.

However, the problems with a Campbell Hausfeld air compressor that create this situation are fairly common. In fact, it is the same sort of problems that eventually face most DIY low-end air compressors.

The typical reasons are valves failing or internal gaskets letting go. Both of these require a pump dismantling to inspect and repair.

In the Troubleshooting section on the Site Map page, you will find links to pages about why air compressors will not build pressure, and some things to check.

Please have a look, and after you have done these checks, please post your findings as a comment here so we can help nail this down for you, OK?



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Compressor quits working at 60 psi?

by tim
(west virginia)

hello Bill,

i have a 5hp 150 psi campbell hausfield compressor, i started having issues with the on -off pressure valve wouldnt come on or would run even in the off position, i just installed a new complete valve, plugged in turned switch, came right on..went to 60psi and quit.

on off switch didnt help, i unplugged it, and went to checking wiring, didnt see anything loose or burnt, drained all air from talk, plugged compressor back in. it went to the 150mark n quit like supposed to.

i released air to the kick on mark,120psi it quiked back on and went to 150. next day the same thing, i started using air tool, got past the 120,it kicked on, but didnt build air. i used all air n tank, unplugged compressor. after awhile i turned it on, started refilling went to 150.this keeps doing the same thing each time, have to do each time over n over, cant even use compressor..any help be appreciated thanks
Hi there Tim...

When you say " on -off pressure valve" I am understanding that to mean your compressor pressure switch?

The pressure switch reacts to the air pressure in the tank. When the tank pressure reaches the cut in pressure setting of the switch, the air compressor should start.

It should run until the air pressure reaches the cut out pressure, and then the switch should trip to off, the power stops flowing to the motor, and the compressor stops.

You use air, the tank pressure drops to cut in pressure, and the cycle repeats. This is the way it is supposed to work.

Your post makes me wonder a couple of things. When the compressor shuts off before reaching the cut out pressure level, is power still flowing through the switch to the motor circuit, or is the pressure switch tripping off at the lower pressure? If the pressure switch is tripping off, then you still have a pressure switch problem. If the power is still flowing to the motor, and the motor has stopped, then you have a capacitor or motor problem I believe.
When you say "it got past the 120, it kicked on, but didn't build air." this is a different issue. If the compressor motor is running, and the pressure in the tank is not increasing, then there may be a pump problem, may be an intake or pressure valve issue, may be a check valve problem, a gasket leak, many things. Even something simple like the intake filter is plugged, or your compressor isn't powered properly because you are using a too-small extension cord.

Post more information as a comment here and we'll continue trying to help you diagnose your compressor problem.



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WL660700 air compressor cuts off at 35psi and won't start again

by LoveLearn
(South Dakota)

The tell-tale symptom in this complaint is "and won't start again."

The motor windings include a thermal protection device which sometimes fails by becoming partially electrically open when the motor is heated by normal operation.

While the partially open electrical device does not pass sufficient current to operate the motor, they still conduct sufficient current to remain thermally hot so they cannot "reset" becoming electrically conductive again until electric power is disconnected for a few minutes.

This self-heating characteristic maintains the inappropriate motor turn-off even though the greater mass of the motor winding cools most of the way toward ambient temperature. The motor winding will be SLIGHTLY warmed by the load that's keeping the "thermal protector" hot enough to prevent automatic resetting which would allow the motor to restart.

One quick test is to disconnect the compressor's cord for a few minutes, then plug it in again. If it restarts, then again quits and won't automatically restart so long as it is plugged in, that thermal protector device should be checked to see if it is thermally hot.

Also, even though the motor is not restarting, a meter can be used to show that a small electrical load is still present that is keeping the device thermally hot.

I hope this description helps others experiencing this same symptom.

I'm about to determine what's required to replace that device WITHOUT REPLACING THE EXPENSIVE MOTOR.
Thanks for this, LoveLearn.


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