An unloader issue.

by NORMAN LEIGH
(POMPANO FLORIDA USA)

I HAVE BUILT SEVERAL ELECTRIC MOTOR DRIVEN COMPRESSORS OVER THE YEARS. AT THIS TIME I BOUGHT 3 MOTORS RATED AT 3 HP. ONE OR TWO HAVE 220 VOLT SUPPLY AND OTHERS HAVE 115/220 VOLTS SUPPLY. THESE MOTORS ARE OF CHINESE ORIGIN AND WHEN THEY TRY TO RESTART THEY BLOW FUSES. I HAVE ELECTRIC CUTOUTS HOOKED UP SO THEY CUT OFF AT 100 PSI. MY COMPRESSORS DO NOT HAVE DECOMPRRESSORS TO RELIEVE LINE PRESSURE FOR RESTART,DO YOU THINK I HAVE TO INSTALL THEM? I JUST READ SOME OF YOUR READERS QUESTIONS AND I SEE THAT THEY ALSO HAVE SIMILAR PROBLEMS. THE SITUATION IS THAT I DONT KNOW WHERE TO GET DECOMPRESSORS, I ONLY SEE FILTERS AND OTHER PARTS. NEED YOUR ADVICE ,THANKS.

NORM0126@yahoo.com if possible.

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Hi Norm....

Hey did you know that in the world of emails, all caps means you're shouting! :-)

All electric motors have an inrush current when they start, and then once they are going, draw less amps. Some motors come with starters that are basically (if I understand my electrician friend correctly) that allow a quick boost of energy to the motor when it goes to start. This reduces the inrush current, and helps prevent blowing fuses or popping breakers when the motor starts.

By not "unloading" the piston type compressor, you are adding load to the start up current requirements, and that may be why you are overloading the motor on start up and blowing the fuse.

The compressors have an unloader valve to bleed off the compressed air over the piston when the compressor stops, so that there's less load when it goes to start.

Your electric cutouts are shutting off the motor, but not unloading the compressed air over the piston. You should be using a pressure switch that's built for compressors, and when you do, it comes complete with the unloader valve.

Or, you can use the cutout to operate a small 2/2 valve that will perform the same function, but putting that into the circuit will probably cost more in materials and frustration than buying the pressure switch and plumbing the compressor that way.

Cheers,

Bill

Adjusting the unloader valve on a recip comp. 75hp

by Rick
(So.San Francisco, CA)

How do you adjust the unloader valve on an old 75HP IR ES-1 compressor? I cannot seem to make it work.

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Bill answers...

Hi Rick;

Short answer...why would you adjust it?

The unloader valve opens when the pressure reaches cut-out, and stays open until the pressure in the tank reaches the cut-in pressure level.

The pressure switch trips in response to the low pressure, turns on the electric motor, and at the same time, closes the unloader valve.

There is no adjustment needed.

If the unloader valve isn't working, replace it. If it is part of the pressure switch, you may have to replace the pressure switch to fix the unloader valve problem.

Cheers,

Bill

Unloader valve leak issue.

by Robert DeLaPlaza
(Orlando Florida USA)

I have a two stage compressor with an unloader valve, after several years of work the unloader valve got full of gummy residue, I think from the little amount of oil leaking from the compressor in to the tank.

One day I noticed that the compressor was running for too long to reach the stop pressure.

I checked the compressor while it was running, and it seemed like it was running at idle.

Then noticed a small leak at the unloader valve, and when I put my finger over the unloader valve, just were it was leaking, the compressor sound changed, and started pumping really well again and reached the stop pressure in less than 3 minutes.

Took apart the unloader valve and clean it really well with solvent, then I put it back together, after checking that all the o-rings were sealing.

After installing the unloader valve all hell broke loose... it is totally out of adjustment, it has 3 points were it can be adjusted.

1.- A knob on top, a real adjustment intended by the manufacturer. What it adjusts?

The valve has 3 sections

2.- So the top and middle sections can be adjusted and set with a locknut.
to adjust what? and how to set it ?

3.- The middle and bottom sections, can also be adjusted and set with a locknut.
to adjust what? and how to set it ?

when I change the adjustment on the bottom parts it chatters. Fiddling with it I can make it to unload the compressor but then it doesn't pump until I move the adjustment of the valve again... I feel really lost with this.


HOW TO ADJUST A UNLOADER VALVE 3 Sections and top knob?

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Bill answers...

Hi Robert:

Gosh, this is impossible to do without having the switch here and playing with it on the compressor.

You don't indicate the brand of compressor, so I can't even refer you to the factory, if you could find it.

Go to your local "big box store" that sells compressors. They probably won't have a compressor repair depot, but what they will have is a local company that they use for warranty repair of the compressors they sell. Find out who that company is.

Take your pressure switch to them and either ask them to show you how to set it, or given that you've taken it completely apart, it might be a better idea to ask them for a replacement for it.

Do you remember the pressure settings of the compressor before you started having problems? You want to set the OEM replacement switch to those same levels when you reinstall it.

Good luck.

Bill

Compressor Issue - Leak near pressure switch

by Larry

My compressor pumps to cut off at 120 PSI then a little switch on the side of the regulator kicks in and drains air off till it reaches cut in pressure 100psi and this goes on over and over.

Replaced regulator same thing happens.

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Bill comments...

Howdy Larry...

You sound a little frustrated...and I sure understand that when things that are supposed to work, don't.

The little switch that's on the regulator, I'm not familiar with it, any chance of a picture, or, does it look a little like
the schematic shown on this PRV page?

I'm guessing here, but it might be that your PRV (pressure relief valve) is pooched, and that it's cracking open at a much lower pressure than it's supposed to. Not sure though. Usually the PRV's found in the pressure switch circuit.

In any case, PRV's come with a little spring inside sometimes, so that when the pressure drops far enough, it closes and stops the air from bleeding. Then, when the pressure reaches the set point,(usually well above normal system pressures) it cracks open, allowing air to bleed out of your system before you have a catastrophic failure.

In your case, it might be opening far too soon.

That's all I can think of.

Hope this helps...

Bill