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Shopwide compressed air plumbing

by Jack Waters
(Blairsville, GA)

I have just had a 16 ft. by 32 ft two story shop/barn built. I plan to use the lower for woodworking and the upper for reloading ammo, finishing, and some modeling.

I want to use air nailers, air drills, and sanders. I also want to have compressed air at the finishing area and others upstairs.

I had a 3 foot wide porch built on the outside for the air compressor and a whole shop sawdust control vacuum.

I understand that I need a water drain valve at the bottom of each drop. I would like suggestions on what kind of pipe to use. I wonder if I can mount regulators at the different drops. I have been reading about turbulence and pressure drop. I understand that I probably need larger id pipe than I had thought before looking over this site. I am trying to decide on HP, Air flow (CFM) tank size, pipe size, and pipe type.

I am looking at a 2 HP, 5.7 CFM at 125 psi at Grainger, hooked to copper pipe about 1/2 inch id. After looking at this site, I am thinking of 3/4 inch id. Any comments?

Bill answers...

First off Jack, my gosh, I envy you your workshop, big time!

Years ago when I shot trap my brother-in-law and I had quite the reloading setup for shotgun shells (we'd blow off 200 rounds each on a Saturday - then take the rest of the week to let our shoulders heal!) I also used to shoot handgun and the only way you can shoot lots of short gun is to fire .22 caliber, or reload your own. I had a real sweet .357 Colt wheelgun that I sure miss, even to this day. And, I even loaded some rifle cartridges...but that was a long time ago.

Sorry to wander off topic.

In any case....

The issue Jack is how long do you want to run your air tools at one time?

The compressor you've specified will work well for the nailer, and will probably be OK for the other tools, as long as you can stop often enough to let the compressor catch up.

The output from your proposed compressor, 5.7 CFM @ 125 PSI, sounds like a lot, but check the air demand of the tools. Your air sander alone will likely outstrip the capacity of your compressor if you plan on using it in long stretches.

If you're going to work a lot at one time, then I'm thinking that your compressor isn't going to be big enough.

Trouble is, if you go bigger on compressor motor size, and I'm thinking maybe 5HP on a 60 gallon vertical or horizontal tank, you'll need to go to 220 Volt power.

Jack, here's some information on compressor sizing.

Here's info on tank size as it relates to CFM.

As to the pressure drop, sure, you'll see some in your shop, but I wouldn't worry too much about it. If you can handle the cost of 3/4 copper from the compressor to your overhead main, and then 1/2 drops to the applications, do that, you shouldn't have any problem with pressure drop.

When you "Tee" off the drop leg (above the drop leg drain by about 12") then it's a good plan to install a filter/regulator there. Then you can control the pressure to each application from that spot.

And don't forget, run the air tools at the lowest possible pressure that does the job. That saves energy and prolongs the charge in the air receiver.

I hope this helps...

Cheers,

Bill

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Shopwide compressed air plumbing

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Dec 05, 2008

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by: Jack Waters

Bill, thanks a lot for the info. I just found your answer in my SPAM folder. I learned a lesson there. I like the idea of reducing the pipe size for the drops. That makes good sense. I had also assumed that one should mount a regulator and filter at the drop. I was just not sure if you could do that.
Now I have two other questions. I thought about adding an extra air tank to increase capacity. Does anyone do this? I was thinking if I could find a used water pump tank and pipe the air through it before it goes into the shop, it should be a simple way to increase the capacity of the system. Just a thought.
Second, I was watching a remodeling show on the DIY network recently and saw a plumber using a new type of water pipe. He was telling the homeowner that this new plastic-looking pipe was stronger than copper and could be snaked and bent through nooks and crannies almost like hose. Anybody know anything about this stuff?

Jack...about the extra tank, yes, a good idea. What you are doing with that is building up your total air reservoir capacity, and that will allow you to run tools longer before your air supply drops below MOP (minimum operating pressure). Then you have to wait for the compressor to catch up before you can start work again.

Make sure that the tank you use has a rating for your pressure. You could get into trouble by using a tank for storing compressed air that isn't rated. (Trouble = catastrophic failure of the tank).

"He was telling the homeowner that this new plastic-looking pipe was stronger than copper and could be snaked and bent through nooks and crannies almost like hose..." Jack, I think this is CPVC and in home water use, it seems to be ideal.

Don't think that it's suitable for compressed air though, until you get the manufacturer's name from the pipe (go to your plumbing store and ask about CPVC pipe for water) and email them to ask.

When plastic exceeds it's strength capacity, it explodes into shards which can, to say the least, be detrimental to your health.

~B.

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Dec 05, 2008
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Submitted by: Jack Waters

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Bill, thanks a lot for the info. I just found your answer in my SPAM folder. I learned a lesson there. I like the idea of reducing the pipe size for the drops. That makes good sense. I had also assumed that one should mount a regulator and filter at the drop. I was just not sure if you could do that. Now I have two other questions. I thought about adding an extra air tank to increase capacity. Does anyone do this? I was thinking if I could find a used water pump tank and pipe the air through it before it goes into the shop, it should be a simple way to increase the capacity of the system. Just a thought. Second, I was watching a remodeling show on the DIY network recently and saw a plumber using a new type of water pipe. He was telling the homeowner that this new plastic-looking pipe was stronger than copper and could be snaked and bent through nooks and crannies almost like hose. Anybody know anything about this stuff? <br /> <hr /> <br /> Jack...about the extra tank, yes, a good idea. What you are doing with that is building up your total air reservoir capacity, and that will allow you to run tools longer before your air supply drops below MOP (minimum operating pressure). Then you have to wait for the compressor to catch up before you can start work again. Make sure that the tank you use has a rating for your pressure. You could get into trouble by using a tank for storing compressed air that isn't rated. (Trouble = catastrophic failure of the tank). <i>"He was telling the homeowner that this new plastic-looking pipe was stronger than copper and could be snaked and bent through nooks and crannies almost like hose..."</i> Jack, I think this is CPVC and in home water use, it seems to be ideal. Don't think that it's suitable for compressed air though, until you get the manufacturer's name from the pipe (go to your plumbing store and ask about CPVC pipe for water) and email them to ask. When plastic exceeds it's strength capacity, it explodes into shards which can, to say the least, be detrimental to your health. ~B.

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Shopwide compressed air plumbing

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