Sanborn compressor will not turn on?
Sanborn 60 gallon air compressor
I have a Sanborn 60 gal in the garage hard wired to sub panel in garage.
Now it has been extremely cold here in Illinois. My garage is not heated but insulated.
I don't use compressor every day.
I had it wired with an on off switch basically a light switch.
I used it recently and after normal operation the safety valve popped and unit wouldn't shut off at cut off.
The unit has a Furnas model 69JF7LY2C pressure switch. I tried adjusting set screws and did nothing.
Now to 2 days ago same issue while working on my truck.
I also had a buddy welding in the garage which popped a breaker for that outlet.
So I reset all breakers and now compressor won't even turn on???
Where do I start to diagnose the issue? Is switch bad, does cold have a factor. is it on the power side? Please help Thanks!!
Don, if the air compressor will not shut off at the normal cut out pressure, but continues to run until the PRV lets go, that's almost always a problem with the pressure switch itself.
Since, in my opinion, this is the most critical issue with those on your Sanborn air compressor, I suggest you replace the pressure switch immediately.
Yes, cold does affect the starting of an air compressor. That's referred in a page in the troubleshooting section.
If your 60 gallon Sanborn is a 5 HP, 240 volt compressor, and it were mine, I would not power it through a typical on/off switch. I'd get an industrial, heavy duty switch. But that's just me.
If you were welding and using compressed air, and the power for both pieces of equipment was on the same circuit, I expect you exceeded the amperage draw of the circuit.
Sanborn 5hp 90lbs compressor will not start up, new out of the crate.
(Great bend, ks)
I purchased a new Canborn compressor (5hp 90lbs 240v)and had an electrician come and do the electrical hookups.
There's juice everywhere there should be right up to the motor, and it will not start.
Tried to jump the thermal cut-out switch thinking it was bad. No luck. Any suggestions?
Greg, if absolutely nothing happens when you power up the compressor, and if the power is getting to the motor circuit for sure, then I would think, it were mine, that the start capacitor has failed, and is preventing even any flow of power to the motor.
Sometimes start caps fail and the motor still gets juice, tries to start, and pops a breaker or heats up and goes off on thermal overload.
If you have power on both sides of the thermal switch, then that's not the problem. Jumping it won't help.
A start cap that has failed open prevents any power from getting through.
I would think it's that or the motor itself is pooched.
sanborn comressor issues
I need a new switch and a new pressure regulator for a 3.5 hp Sanborn mgf portable ai compressor with a modoe #M07F350-20 and serial #2590467 115volt 20 gallon tank.
Marion, see the pages on this site about pressure switches to help you determine what type of pressure switch to use. Use the sitemap.
As long as the new switch has the same voltage range, the same unloader valve hookup, has a similar cut in and cut or can be adjusted, and can be installed on your compressor, you do not need to use a specific brand.
Ditto the regulator. See the regulator pages on this site for more info.
Sanborn Magna Force 3 1/2 hp
Didn't see this problem listed in troubleshooting. Thanks in advance.
I have an old Sanborn Magna Force 3 1/2 Model O7FL350-20.
Pressure Regulator stuck and electric switch was broke for years so I just turned turned it on/off with surge protector. It would get to 80 or 90 pounds then I would shut off and turn back on when pressure dropped.
Over last few weeks it would stop on its own at 80, then 60, then 40 and now at 20 pounds. (Not trip breaker)
I have freed up pressure switch now (why didn't I earlier?) and went through problem solving.
Air filter had disintegrated. Remove top of compressor (manifold) and it had some dust particles I suppose from filter breaking down. Cleaned up. Haven't looked at check valve I will this weekend. Am going in right direction?
I haven't found parts like pressure switch/regulator but did see check valve avaliable. If you have time thanks. Randy
Yes, put a pressure switch on. You need not use OEM equipment as long as the new pressure switch has similar cut in / cut out, handles the voltage, and interfaces with the unloader.
Then, when the compressor stops at 20 PSI as yours is doing now, if power is getting through the switch (the switch hasn't tripped off) then you will know the problem is downstream of the pressure switch.
As a guess I would look at the start capacitor first, then be thinking about a tired motor next, but you need to get the pressure switch working first.