old champion compressor bleeds out air

by Jake Neilson
(Lakemoor IL)


Hi Bill, what I mean by air bleeding is that as soon as it hits 150psi and kicks off, it goes PSSHHHHH and air shoots out a small screened fitting pointing towards the ground underneath where small air line comes from head, on side opposite pulley. I will enclose a couple pictures one of me pointing at the screened fitting where the air comes out. sory for poor quality, thanks again!!


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Bill says....

Jake, thanks for the photo. The "PSSHHHHH" you hear is the compressor unloading. If you aren't sure about what that is, have a read of the UNLOADER VALVE page on this site.

If air continues to leak out of this vent after the compressor stops, then it's coming from your tank, and that means that the check valve, that is supposed to keep air in the tank when the compressor stops, is leaking.

Cheers,

Bill

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Sep 04, 2015
Unloader
by: Bill

First, see the page about unloader valves on this site for a complete explanation about how they work.

Second, start a new thread, and upload images of your unloader. You can upload 4, and get in close.

I, or our many visitors, will help, I'm sure.

Cheers,

Bill

Sep 04, 2015
Old champion unloader
by: Carlav1410

Hope it's ok to ask a question here? I have an unloader question... I have checked and cleaned set on checkvalve all good now.

Is the unloader supposed to close when compressor starts? And if so how do you get brass screw out under ball and spring?

Oct 05, 2011
Old champion bleeds...
by: Rich

I would just like to add something to the happy ending.

True, most compressors did come with tank check valves, but they also had a valve on the side of the pressure switch to relieve the pressure between the pump and the tank to provide 'loadless starting' once it reached cut out point and opened, (UNLOADER VALVE... B.) no back pressure on the discharge valves would help the motor get up to speed when it needed to start.

You would also notice in the picture the copper 1/4" line from the crank end cover to the head unloaders was a centrifugal unloader which at rest would be open and hold the inlet valves in the open position until it spun up to start, then it would close the valve, vent the air only from the compressor head side and hold system air back at the valve.

This air should come from the tank and always be under pressure. Pressure lubricated pumps use oil pressure to load/unload the units in the same way using a hydraulic unloader. Having this set up makes it easy to set the unit up for continuos run. Sorry for being long winded..

Rich

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Thanks, Rich. B.

Aug 31, 2011
Old champion compressor bleeds air
by: jake neilsom

Hi Bill, Went to farm&Fleet yesterday and got a check valve that screwed into the tank. I had to replace the copper tube and fitting going from Head to tank. She built up o 150psi kicked off and held pressure all night long. Thanks again Bill. Cheers.

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I do like a story with a happy ending. Thanks for sharing one.

B.


Aug 29, 2011
Neilson
by: Jake Neilson

Hi Bill, I had disassembled the unloader valve by My finger. I looked at compressor just now, the line going from pump to tank is like 3/4 copper same size as other but no cooling fins, HOWEVER, the line goes from pump to tank, NO Valve!?!?!?!? I just removed the line and there is NO valve just a compression style fitting where it screws into the tank sealing the copper pipe?? Well I would imagine that is My problem right there!? So where could I find a valve? Do local hardware stores carry somthing like that?? UNBELIEVABLE!! Thanks again!! Cheers! I owe You a Beer Sir!

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While all the smaller air compressors have check valves to keep air in the tank, I can't guarantee that the design of your Champion air compressor included one. It seems reasonable to have a check valve where the line from the pump enters the tank, and I can't see any downside of having one. In terms of finding on, your better bets are industrial air component (air cylinders, valves etc.) shops or maybe high end plumbing stores. I suspect you will have to do some creative plumbing to install is. Good luck. And I'll hoist one back at ya.

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old champion twin cylinder pump bleeds air out after shutoff.

by Jake Neilson
(Lakemoor IL)

it is a late 1950s twin cylinder champion pump with a 2hp champion motor on a 60 gal horizontal tank. Fills tank builds to 150psi, kicks off and air starts bleeding out from screened relief valve? once it drops to 115psi pump kicks back on. if I unplug it at any point when pump stops, valve bleeds tank empty. Whats going on????

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Bill says....

Jake, I don't know for sure what this is: "bleeding out from screened relief valve".

My first thought though is for you to dump the air and pull the line into the tank to make sure that the check valve is not leaking.

Often, when air bleeds out from a compressor when it's stopped it's because the check valve that is supposed to keep air in the tank when the compressor is off, is not seating properly, or has failed.

Check that out if you would, and then post here as a comment if we need to talk some more.

Cheers,

Bill

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Aug 27, 2011
Check Valve
by: Jake

Bill, Its model# is NR-150, serial# UP-153614. Should the check valve have a rubber seal?? I removed cap, spring, check ball, and needle. all looked ok. Removed 6 screws and side cover which as check valve and line coming from top of cylinder. all looked ok, springs were in the centrifugal thing. i would guess that check valve cant seal properly without some type of seal? Looks like its a rod sliding into a bore?? where can i find a proper check valve? Thanks again!

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Jake, I still would like to know what you mean by "bleeding out from screened relief valve".

Regarding the check valve, it's normally installed where the line from the pump enters the tank. If that's what you have disassembled, can you test it in terms of air flow? Is air flow blocked in one direction?

B.


Aug 27, 2011
check valve
by: Jake

Hi Bill. BTW its model # NR-150, serial# UP-153614. Yes I believe its dumping air and is most likely the check valve. I removed the cap, spring, check ball and the needle thing. I then removed 6 screws and side cover. I would imagine the check valve should have some kind of rubber seal or something? The "needle" wont seal tightly when its just metal to metal right? looks like it just gets pushed into a metal bore? Where can I find the appropriate check valve? ThankYou VERY much!!

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CHAMPION PNUEMATIC MODEL# OE4080 S/N# 70346

by CHET FOX
(ELKHART, IN )

I need help with this project I have a 250 GALLON AIR TANK WITH A GENERAL ELECRTIC 2 HP CAPACITOR S/N# 5KCS224XB1OA 60CYCLES SINGLE PHASE 115/230
SERVICE 1.20 CODE j, nema class design L. WHAT I NEED TO KNOW IS... ON THIS GE MOTOR WITH OUT A PRESSURE SWITCH ON THE TANK, YET. (SUGGEST A VACUM 150PSI OR WHAT, AND WIRING DIAGRAM FOR FOR HOOK UP TO IT AND THE POWER CONTROLS T1 AND T2 TERMINALS ON THE BREAKER SWITCH???)
DOES THIS TYPE OF SINGLE PHASE MOTOR RUN ON 220 V? IF SO WHAT 110 RED WIRE AND 110 BLACK WIRE HOOK UP TO WHICH TERMINAL (T1 & T2) AND GROUND GOES TO BOX FRAME???
I PUT THIS AIR COMPRESSOR IN MY GARAGE 2 YEARS AGO AND I JUST GOT TO THIS PROJECT MORE RECENTLY. I AM NOW WANTING TO GET IT WORKING IF I CAN.. IT WORKED IN A BODY SHOP WHEN I GOT IT. IF I HOOK UP THE ELECTRIC AND IT RUNS I CAN THAN ATTACH MY GALVANIZED PIPE AND BINKS WATER AND AIR FILTER , AND INLINE AIR PRESSURE CONTROL AND A 100 FEET OR SO AIR LINE FOR PNUEMATIC TOOLS AND AUTO REPAIR PAINTING. THANK YOU OH YES... CHAMPION IS FIXING ME UP WITH AN AIR FILTER ASSEMBLY FOR 35 DOLLARS, FILTERS ARE ONLY 4 DOLLARS AFTER THAT. I would like to locate a breaker switch control panel surface place, too. Thanks.... CHET! ; )

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Champion compressors - i shut my compressor down released the pressure...

by Walter
(mt pleasant pa)

i shut my compressor down released the pressure changed the oil went to turn it back on and nothing??

all i know is that its a 35 hp champion recip. 2 cyl 4 stroke.

all i did was shut it down for an oil change and released the moisture. upon completion i turned the breaker back on and nothing. the breaker is the way i always shut it down. and every morning it fires right up. why is this any different?

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Bill says...

Walter, check your manual about oil level sensors for your compressor. They may shut down if the oil level is too low, and, if you have changed the oil, perhaps the sensor either isn't reading it, or the sensor may be toast.

Does your compressor have an oil level sensor?

Cheers,

Bill

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