Oil in intake problem ingersoll rand 720

by Nick claydon
(Colchester)

I have an ingersoll rand 720 compressor which has developed a problem and I would appreciate your help and advice


The compressor has a kubota Diesel engine driving the screw compressor by drive belt.

The compressor has been functioning fine but when running today the engine stopped and a large amount of compressor oil had made its way into the engine air cleaner/screw compressor plastic intake.

It was leaking from the air cleaner drain and when I removed the intake it was full of compressor oil.

The oil in the compressor is ingersoll rand pro-tec.

When removing the fill plug for the oil separator there doesn't appear to be any oil left in the separator tank. Prior to this problem the oil level has always been set to the level of this fill plug.

My knowledge of these is quite limited but I can only presume that something on the separator tank has failed and the compressor oil has gone into the plastic engine intake which is also shared by the screw compressor.

Any confirmation would be good and any ideas of what I need to check and replace. The unit has done 720 hours in total and I last changed the compressor oil at 550 hours

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Oct 22, 2013
Inlet valve??
by: Carls421

Hi,
Your problem i believe lyes with your inlet valve, it sits on top of the air-end.
What can happen with these is that when the compressor goes off load or is switched off, the inlet valve immediately closes, if it doesnt close quick enough, the pressure comes back through and past the inlet valve taking oil with it and pushes it up the air intake and into your air filter. Its known as having a "lazy inlet valve"

Its easy to get fixed, just get your local compressor company to fit a service kit to it. If you try to do it yourself, be VERY careful as this valve is under very high spring pressure and if its not done properly and carefully it has been known serious injury to occur when removing the circlip.

Hope that helps

Carl
_________________
Carl, thank you for your always spot on advice.

Bill

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need service manual for ingersoll rand model p175wd

by mark
(greenbush mn)

been looking alover and cant find a service maual

___________________________

- www.agrimanuals.com/ingersoll---rand-compressor-p175wd-parts-manual-2420-p.asp

- www.ingersollrandproducts.com/IS/Category.aspx-am_en-31049

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IR 185 tow behind gas gauge not working.

by John
(Minnesota)

All of the wiring is in tact, kinda stuck now. Any ideas?

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Bill says...

If the gas gauge is fried John, I suspect that there are no fixes involved, just a re & re of the gauge with a new one.

Anyone else????

Cheers,

Bill

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ingersoll rand 175

by gus
(shawnee ks)

runs great but once warm wont restart till cools down

__________________
Bill says...

Gus, it's pretty hard to diagnose this problem from afar. Hopefully, someone else with an IR 175 has had the same type of problem and can post their results.

It seems pretty straightforward that your compressor has a thermal cut out, and it's not letting you restart the compressor until it cools.

The question is, of course, what's causing it to overheat? Can't even begin to guess, myself. Over to additional help, please.

Cheers,

Bill

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Feb 10, 2012
Won't restart when warmed up
by: Ron Belt

Hi Ron with Air Compressor Service.

So many issues with hot air compressors that won't restart. These questions have to be answered.

Is the unit full of oil on the compressor side.

Is the radiator plugged with dirt and debris.

Both are common issues. Bill is right in that there are sensors on these unit to shut off the fuel rack on diesel engines and the coil on gasoline models. These switches are located in numerous places but one that is always in place is right where the air discharges out of the rotary screw compressor on the bottom side.

Wires come off that switch. Older models are merely switches and can be jumpered around to test the circuit. If problem goes away then the switch may be at fault if the unit is not over heating due to other issues.

A thermal infrared gun is needed to test the area at discharge. Switch cut out is usually around 225 degrees F.

Other sensors can be on the oil sump, engine thermostat water neck, as well as engine oil pressure sensor.

Try jumping across these switches individually and see if you can isolate a bad one. Once again, an infrared gun is needed to verify temps. Good luck.
________________
Thanks Ron.

Bill



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