IR 1999 XP 185 melting the nylon tubing that runs to it?
Can the compressed air in the compressor separator on a IR 1999 XP 185get hot enough to melt the nylon tubing that runs to it?
We recently had an issue with our 1999 xp185 - with the nylon lines running to the separator vessel becoming so hot that they melted and began burning and emitting black smoke from the compressor unit.
There was also carbon (smoke residue) on the inside of the discharge hose connection.
Is it possible for the oil inside the separator/receiver housing to get hot enough to heat the metal this much? If so what would lead to this condition?
- Would an ambient outside temperature conditions of - 45 to 50 C contribute to this?
Is there a performance chart on how the ambient air temperature would affect the heat generated inside of the separator/receiver?
We were using Dextron II ATF in it
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7.5 hp IR 80 gal compressor kicks breaker when cold
by Ted Parks
My 7.5 hp IR compressor when cold, will start very slow and kick breaker.
I have a pressure release valve on cylinder and no pressure there when this happens.
I feel it is a start up cap problem.
How do I check caps? I see 2 fuses in units control pnl, what are they for?
Thanks for help.
Ingersoll Rand compressor heats up then blows breaker
Ingersoll Rand 2545 air compressor
ingersoll rand 2545 with 10 hp ao smith motor
compressor runs fine until it heats up then acts like a switch is trying to kill it until the breaker pops
Ingersoll Rand SS5L5 Won't Fill Tank Before Motor Gets Hot and Shuts Down
Ingersoll Rand air compressor
I have a problem with my Ingersoll Rand SS5L5 60 gallon air compressor.
I've only had this compressor for 3 years and it has never seen any hard use.
I was working the compressor pretty hard a couple of days ago by doing some sandblasting. I'm guessing the motor kicked on probably 3 times during this period. I noticed a noise that wasn't normal at one point when the motor was running the pump......I can't describe it but it just didn't sound "normal" like it always has.
The motor got hot during and shut down due to the heat. I let everything cool completely off until the next day, hit the reset button on the motor turned on the switch.
Before turning the compressor back on I let all the air out of the tank. When I turn the compressor back on it will not fill the tank completely before the motor gets hot and shuts off again.
The switch is set to shut off right around 125 psi on this compressor and now it only gets to around 100 psi or so before the motor gets too hot and shuts off. I have never had this problem before. It just seems like the tank is not filling up or pressurizing as quick as it used to.
Did I mess something up inside the pump? At first I thought my electric motor was going bad but, like I said, it seems like it is just taking way longer than normal to get air into the tank.
Any help or advice as to how I can diagnose my problem would be greatly appreciated.
I did disconnect the main air line from the pump to the tank with around 100 psi of air in the tank to make sure I didn't have a faulty check valve and no air came out of the line.
Was told I could have had a bad check valve which may have been causing too much head pressure therefore creating a heavier load on the motor.
Hey Jay... what I think is that you've had a gasket blow in the pump, and rather than being driven down into the tank, the air is circulating in the pump, back and forth.
This means that the motor runs much longer than normal, overheats, and causes a thermal cut out.
Or, it might be a pressure valve issues.
I don't think, based on what you've written, that it's a tank check valve, though removing and cleaning it wouldn't be a bad idea.
I suspect you'll need to tear down the pump and add a valve and gasket kit to resolve this issue.