Husky pump Loads down and stalls as pressure builds

by Carl Miller
(Hawi, HI)

RE: Husky 60 Gal 5.8SCFM Compressor.

This problem has been coming for a while, I guess-- I was hearing RPM variations as the pump was running up the make-up to 135 psi, but it always made it before todaymade it.

But today the pump got slower and slower and bogged the motor down, then finally the belt slipped (squealed and started to burn!) fortunately I was there for a shut off.

I let some pressure off and the pump was able to restart, so it is not frozen (whew!) but something is very wrong.

Normal temp at 70F.

Motor and switch and plumbing are all OK.

Intake muffler is not clogged.

It is like extra friction in the pump from somewhere. But oil seems OK (at "Max" on dipstick) although I have never changed it (unit is at least 9 yrs old; daily use for 1/3 of that time) So guess I can change the oil, but can anybody think of another maintenance short of teardown, and probably major parts replacement?

I guess taking off the head might be easy enough, to see if the parts turn freely...

I looked for ID on the pump, no luck. 2 Cylinder, Made in USA, is all I can tell.

Thanks if anyone has any ideas. I am sure this has happened to others in the sequence I describe.

Hawi, HI

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Pump is bogging down

by Michael
(Summerville, SC)

We had a Huskey 60 gal 3.2 hp air compressor that we use for media blasting. The motor burned out, so we got a new one that would fit, a 6 hp motor with a bigger shaft. We got it up and running, and it seems that it doesnt turn the pump, and just spins/heats up the belt. It makes a high pitch squeaking sound, and the more presure that builds the slower the pumps gets. We changed the oil. I just dont get why it slows down teh higher the presure gets. Any advice?

Bill says....

At one point you note that the drive belt won't turn the pump, and in another that the more pressure that builds the slower the pump. Confusing.

It seems to me though that your problem is at the pump end if it's the pump sheave where the belt is squealing and slipping on the sheave.

Good that you changed the oil, but I suspect that you have a mechanical issue with the pump, and that is likely why the original motor burned out.

I think it's pump teardown time.



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Husky Pro 2HP 20 gallon compressor leaks from black plastic hose

by Chris Pearson
(Stantonsburg, NC )

I have owned this compressor for less than 2 years and it has worked witout any issues up until this past weekend.

Now the little black plastic line that goes from the top of the tank to the On/Off switch leaks where it plugs into the switch. It seems to be one of those push lock fittings and I can't figure out how to unplug it. I removed the unit from the top of the compressor and unplugged the line from the tank to get a better look. I can blow through that plastic line and hear/feel air leaking out. I don't think the line is cracked or anything, it looks like it may be leaking where it connects to the bottom of the switch. Has anyone else had this problem and if so how did you fix it?

Bill says....

Hi Chris... the air you refer to might not be leaking from this line, I'm no sure.

Here's what may be happening. The CHECK VALVE that goes into your tank may not be seating properly, and, since the line from the pump head to the pressure switch is open to atmosphere when the compressor stops, if the check valve is leaking, then air will come back out of the tank and blow out of the UNLOADER VALVE, which is normally beside or part of the PRESSURE SWITCH.

If air is indeed leaking around the fitting where the line goes into it, I'd need to see a photo to try and help you figure out how to fix up that.

If you determine that it is the fitting, please take a close up photo of where the line and fitting meet, and another of the compressor showing the complete line, and start another thread with the photos too.



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Husky H1506 (pre-2008) Unloader Line Broken

by Nick
(Brentwood, CA)

All of a sudden, my compressor was running but not building any pressure. Upon closer examination I could see that a line had popped out of a lock-nut fitting. I went online and found a diagram of my unit and was able to identify the Unloader Line as the line in question; and the Bleeder Valve where the connection was broken. My Unloader Line appears to still have a metal nipple stuck in the end of it.
My question is: what exactly is broken here and how do I fix it?

Thanks, Nick
It's always my suggestion Nick that an unloader line that gives problems will always give problems, so I suggest changing the line out to soft copper tube available from the plumbing or hardware store.

Having said that, your question suggests that the line has broken where it inserts either into your pressure switch (which controls the unloader valve) or into the top of the unloader valve itself, I cannot tell which.

Change the line, modify or add fittings where necessary.

I don't know what exactly is broken as I cannot see the line or where it was inserted into your compressor. A photo uploaded with your inquiry would certainly have helped.


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Dec 30, 2013
Point of Breakage
by: Nick


Thanks for your thoughts.
The Unloader line broke at what I termed the Bleeder Valve and you are calling the Unloader Valve. My question remains which part will come with the nipple that is now stuck inside the unloader line: the line or the valve?

I'm happy to replace the line with copper, but that doesn't come with the connection at the valve I assume; so does the valve come with the connection that goes into the lock nut?

Thanks, Nick
Is the line going into the top of the unloader valve, or is it going into the bottom of the pressure switch?

If the latter, you may have a bigger issue in removing the connector to replace it.

I can't see what the issue is from here. Sorry.

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