Filters For Compressed Air SystemsThis is page two of information about compressed air filters. Page one can be found via this link. If you have a question about compressed air filters, you can submit it at the bottom of this page. The items numbered in the filter graphic are described in the accompanying text. 6) The filter bowl of your air filter may thread into the cap housing, or more likely use a "bayonet" type mount. The bayonet style of mount can be installed by pushing the bowl up against the cap, rotating it a short distance, and letting the lugs on the bowl slide down into the receptacles in the cap. To remove the bowl, you reverse the process, first making very careful that there isn't air in the line.
You've got at least 3 or 4 square inches of "piston" area inside the bowl housing, and if your air-line is "charged" with 100 PSI,
If you somehow manage to get the bowl un-bayoneted or unscrewed against that pressure, the filter bowl will likely and unfortunately "blow" itself right out of your hands, smashing itself into bits and pieces on the floor, and possibly injuring you or a colleague with flying debris from the impact! Does this sound like something we're really familiar with? You bet! (Insert rueful chuckle here!) Sometimes the bowls of the air filter are plastic with a metal shroud, or are completely metal construction. That being the case, why use why metal or metal shrouded bowls? 7) Bowl Separation Barrier; Inside of almost every air filter bowl there will be a device that separates the bowl into an 'above' and 'below' section. This barrier is usually made of a plastic or plastic composite and is usually installed hanging from the bottom of the element. This barrier blocks the cyclonic incoming air, preventing it from reaching the "soup" of debris, water and oil that's collecting in the bottom of the filter bowl. This barrier creates a "quiet" zone, allowing the contamination that collects onto the sides of the bowl to flow down, ultimately out of the cyclonic air, and to remain - without getting entrained or re-entrained back into the air stream, until it can be expelled from the drain at the bottom of the bowl. 8) Drain; All industrial compressed air filters will have a drain in the bottom of the bowl. These drains may be manual, float type, or electronic auto drains. They need to be opened regularly to allow collected water and debris to escape from the filter bowl. Failure to drain the filter bowls often enough will mean that the water and debris in the "quiet zone" will rise past the barrier referred to above, and once there, be entrained into the "cyclonic" air, and onto the element. In some cases debris and water from a full bowl will flood the element so badly that it seems to become almost no barrier to the contamination at all, and your air filter is actually contributing a steady stream of "crud" downstream to damage the components in your application, while it chokes your air supply to death. What size of compressed air filter will you need? Here’s information on compressed air filter sizes. Here are the generally accepted symbols for drawing compressed air filters in your circuit schematic.
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