Coleman Powermate has a defective weld

by Bill Smith
(Brandenburg, KY)

I have 5hp 27 gal Coleman Powermate air compressor. Recently it started leaking air pressure. At the bottom of the compressor there is a petcock to drain moisture. The petcock screws into a fitting that is about 2 inches in diameter. The fitting screws into a female threaded fitting that is welded into the tank. It is around the weld that air is leaking. The weld is nice abd smooth about halfway around but very rough the rest of the way around. It is in the rough area of the weld that the air is leaking. Since the compressor is out of warranty I will attempt to seal the weld with J.B. WELD. Any other suggestions?

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Yup, Bill, my recommendation is... don't!

You don't indicate how old this tank is.

The flaw in the weld may be a rust through coming from inside, and just grinding and welding the outside seam may not resolve the issue.

If the tank has a weak spot, the amount of force inside it with the air pressure could rupture the tank, and you may have a catastrophe on your hands.

Consider getting a new tank. It's safer.

Cheers,

Bill

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Nov 24, 2012
About to buy a 27 Gal. COLEMAN Air Compressor- anything to watch out for?
by: Jim

Hey out there, I'm looking at a 27 Gal. 6 hp COLEMAN Air Compressor on Craigslist. I noticed this company is going or already is out of business. I can get it for $200 with a 1/2" air impact wrench. Seems like a real good deal. What do you guys think?

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Vo 201 Powermate Coleman - loud unusual noise

by John
(Valley Stream NY)

I have a vp201 2 gal/100 psi worked fine and than while i was using a finish nail gun it made a loud unusual noise and I shut it down. Now It makes a low noice and will not get PSi past 25
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Well John, to my way of thinking, that loud unusual noise your Powermate compressor made was a valve letting go, or more likely, an internal gasket blowing open.

Now, I suspect, your compressed air is simply cycling back and forth between intake and high pressure chambers, and not getting into the tank.

I also suspect that the gasket holds until the back pressure in the tank reaches 25 PSI, then the compressor has to work harder to get air down into the tank, and pow, the gasket lets go.

Those are my thoughts, John. Other views are welcome, though I suspect that you will be tearing down and rebuilding your pump, regardless.

Cheers,

Bill

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Model number MP0402013 Check Valve

by Mike
(Poteau OK)

Have a Coleman Powermate Model number MP0402013 that my friend broke the control piping off and some of it is missing. If I replace the check valve with an unloader check valve (4X996) from Grainger, will it work okay?
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This compressor comes with an unloader valve as part of the pressure switch.

When you say you've lost part of the control piping, on this model it isn't very complex... a line from the pump into the tank through the tank check valve, and a tee above that over to the pressure switch / unloader valve.

I haven't used the unloader check valve 4X996 myself, yet if it unloads the air over the piston on compressor shut off, and doesn't bleed air while the compressor is running, then no reason why it shouldn't work.

If you try it, and get it working, I'd sure appreciate it if you would start a new thread about using this on your compressor, uploading some photos, via the ASK page.

Cheers,

Bill

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Coleman Powermate gets extremely hot

Coleman Powermate Black Max - Model B165B500-25
5HP 220v 25 gal. tank

I purchased the unit new in 1995. Oil is changed at least once a year, even if only used once to air up a car tire the entire year. Air filter changed regularly, and tank always drained after every use.

Typically, no matter if it's 40 degrees in my garage or 100, the tank is the same as room temperature. On a cold day of running it for 4-5 hours spray painting, the compressor is warm to touch, and the air tank stays cold to the touch.

Recently on a 70 degree. day, I turned it on long enough to add a little air to my four riding mower tires. Less than 3 minutes of run time total. When finished, the air tank was so hot it blistered me! The tank itself! I wasn't even going to try and see how hot the compressor was, with my hand.

I checked the tank with a temp unit, and top, side, ends or bottom, it was consistently over 200 degrees Fahrenheit! The 50 ft. air hose was hot to touch 25 ft. away from the unit. Compressor head was over 400 degrees 1/2 hour after sitting turned off and unplugged. This is NOT normal to say the least.

It does not leak air. Starts and shuts off smoothly and at correct pressures.

Side note: My original brochure, manual, parts list book and decal on side of compressor show it to be model B165B500-25, but on EVERY site I have looked for clues or replacement parts for it, that model number shows a completely different model drawing. Online sites parts diagrams which look like my unit, say it is a 104C200... not what my original decal on the unit and literature say, which makes it more confusing trying to find simple maintenance parts.

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