Brute from Wal-Mart will not start

by Taylor
(Owensboro, KY)

Brute Air Compressor

Brute Air Compressor

When my tank is empty, it will start and fill the tank up to 120 psi, and then shut off, (as it should.)

Once the tank is pressurized, and some of the air used (normally kicks back on around 80-90psi I think), the motor has difficulty re-starting, and trips the breaker.

I have to press the RESET button, and have to drain the tank down to about 20psi, before I can restart the motor and let it fill again. Even at 40psi after the pull-ring blow-off valve has been pulled, and mostly emptied the tank, it bogs down and trips the breaker.

I have changed the oil and the problem seems a bit worse now. I'm clueless!
Hi Taylor...

As a comment here, please give me details of the power supply... things like, is it plugged into a power bar, directly into the socket, are you using an extension cord, the socket where the power comes from, is it used only for the compressor or are other appliances using power at the same time, that sort of thing.



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Dec 23, 2012
Compressor having same problem
by: Dwayne

My Compressor has been doing the same thing as Taylor's. Now it will not turn on at all. I just changed the Pressure Switch. As with Taylor it didn't help. I was now going to change the Capacitor and/or the Reset switch next. Any comments on this option. I also have mine plugged into a dedicated plug, in my shop. Thanks for any suggestions.

Sep 23, 2012
Re: the unloader valve
by: Taylor

I can't figure out exactly what the unloader valve looks like. I took the cover off the motor, and the cover off the pressure switch. I ran it up to cut-out pressure, and when the motor stopped I did NOT hear the blow-off like I expected. I figure the unloader valve probably needs to be replaced but I'm not sure what it looks like. (I just recently put a new pressure switch, trying to fix this problem, before I did any research, and it did not help.)

Taylor, typically there will either be a lever on the side of the pressure switch that toggles the unloader open and closed as the compressor cuts in and out, or you may have a pressure switch with an internal unloader.

Tell you what. Take some digital photos of your pressure switch from various angles, and start a new thread with as many details as you can. When you start a new thread you have the option of uploading photos.

It is true, often a picture is worth a thousand words, and seeing your setup might help.

Also, if you haven't already done so, there is information on this site about the unloader valve that is worth your reading.


Sep 17, 2012
by: Taylor

It's plugged directly into the wall in my attached garage. No extension cords, no power bar. No other appliances are running. It's got a 3 way plug, and is grounded. I believe the garage socket is also a GFI outlet (but the reset button is inside in the bathroom.)
OK Taylor. Assuming that the run from the panel to the plug isn't a really long one, and assuming at least a 15 amp, preferably a 20 amp, breaker, then the power supply isn't the problem.

Now, empty the tank, start the compressor, and run it up to cut out when it stops. When it reaches the cut out, monitor the unloader valve and make sure it does what it is supposed to. If you are not sure what that is, see the Unloader Valve pages on this site for details.

Did the unloader valve work?


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