Bostitch 6 gallon, 2 hp. won't build pressure

by Tom Bryan
(Laramie Wyoming)

Hello,
I have the little Bostich nailer pancake model. It rattled off the bench and broke the connection between the head and the dicharge tube. I ordered a new head, elbow's and discharge tube. I got all installed, but the end of the discharge tube that connects to the tank end will not seet if you will. I feel air "sucking" at that end of the tube, and even used the old ring that wraps the tube. I am able to just slide the tube out after its tight. So I have tried all the hillbilly things I can think of, even electrical tape around tube and connector. It just will not build pressure. Wrong parts? the tube is shaped the same way, the only difference I could see from the excisting was the ring (inside part of the connector that wraps the tube). As I said I even used the old ring. With Shipping I spent $50, and I sure don't think its worth spending more.
Thanks for the HELP !
Tom

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Bill says...

Tom, I'm trying to envisage exactly where the problem you are having is located on your air compressor, but I'm not having much luck. Sorry.

"but the end of the discharge tube that connects to the tank end will not seet if you will."... does this mean that where the tube from the top of the pump tries to enter the tank is the problem?

If so, there shouldn't be any "sucking of air" at this point. If it was leaking there, you should feel air escaping as the compressed air from the pump flows down the tube, and past the check valve, into the tank.

Help me better understand the problem, please.

Thanks,

Bill




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Bostitch 6 gallon, 2 hp. won't build pressure

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Feb 23, 2011
 Response
by: Tom Bryans

Hello Bill,
Thanks for sending a message, and sorry I couldn't be more accurate with the description of the problem. So here I'll try again.
The discharge tube run's from the head (top) down under the motor and to a connector that is threaded into the tank. At that connection, with the compression ring and the connector in place the tube can still move, I can actually pull it out. Like as I stated, it won't "lock in place" the comprssion ring must not compress. Any way, that end of the tube is where I feel the air "sucking" at the end of the tube towards the head. There is only one way to install the head, and the connectors are the ones they sent, it grabs and does fine at the head end, but not at the tank end. Even "taped" up kind of air tite it will not fill the tank with pressure.
Tom

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The pipe from the head to the tank has to be heat resistant, which is why copper is normally used.

The fitting where the tube reaches the tank also contains the check valve. See Check Valve and also Unloader Valve pages for descriptions of these two items.

Where the tube enters the fitting with the check valve at the tank has to be air tight.

Go to a plumbing store and the necessary nipples or female extenders to attach to the check valve housing, cut the tube to fit, and re-insert it into a new compression ring fitting at the top of the new nipples / extenders. That should fix the leak.

Make sure nothing interferes with the check valve operation, and make sure it closes when it's supposed to.

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