Air is escaping from the vent on 3Z180

by Allan Ryan
(Wading River,Long Island)

Air is escaping from the vent in the front of the governor casing. It seems to be fed from the tube that runs from the outlet of the high pressure piston that runs to the storage tank. There is a tube connection to the outside of the governor casing from the top of the discharge port of the hp cylinder. I removed all valves on the piston heads,disassembled,cleaned and re-installed..Still have the same problem. This is a speedaire 3Z180 Champion dual stage compressor pump. The ID. at the pump base is:NR-14-6A. Any suggestion would be appreciated.Thank-youAllan Ryan

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I suspect the problem may be a leaking tank check valve, Allan.

Please see the check valve page for more info about how this component works and how it prevents air leaking from the tank out the unloader valve when the air compressor is off.

Cheers,

Bill

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3z180 air escaping

by james
(Chatt. tenn)

Speedaire 3Z180 Pump (www.grainger.com)

Speedaire 3Z180 Pump (www.grainger.com)

I have 3z180 compresser.

Air is escaping from vent in front governor casing.

I have install new check valve.

Comments for 3z180 air escaping

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Dec 09, 2013
check valve
by: Doug in s.d.ca

Which check valve?

If not the tank valve, do that.

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3z180 - Speedaire - 3hp 60 gal model 1Z721 - flow questions

by Duane
(Houston, Texas)

compressor before re-assembly

compressor before re-assembly

compressor before re-assembly
current setup after 8 years use
yours truly outside Golden Gate Bridge on 5000 mile road trip

I bought this unit about 8 years ago for $250 because it had a rod that was egg-shaped at the crankshaft end (probably run low on oil). I rebuilt the pump and it's been a champ ever since!

I'm restoring a '66 Dodge Charger and I sandblast with a pressure pot or cabinet depending on part size.

With this size Speedaire (9.7 cfm at max pressure at 440 rpm) I can simply keep blasting 'til I run out of sand. It could be better if it put out more cfm, but it suits me just fine. Paint small parts with a touch up gun or spray can and get good results/atomization.

I am now moving on to the engine compartment and eventually body panel paint. I'm looking at a good mid level gun - 13 cfm @ 40 psi (Devilbiss FinishLine). The pump on my compressor is also used on the 5hp unit running at 734 rpm and 17.3 cfm.

My question has to do with going to a larger pulley on my 3hp motor to spin the pump a little faster. I assume there'll be a point of diminishing returns where too big a pulley will cause the motor to draw too much amperage and kick the breaker (when hot or during start-up). Thinking about going from a 4.4" pulley to a 6.2" pulley (5hp motor runs a 7.1" pulley). Any thoughts/suggestions? Want to avoid buying a new motor. Thanks, Duane

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Duane, your logic about the diminishing returns is spot on.

One other thought... the pump was built to run at a specific speed, that brought about by the size of the sheaves on the motor and pump. By altering these, you are moving the pump speed out of its designed zone, and I do not know the ramifications of this. I suspect they cannot be good.

If you are willing to risk mechanical failure by so doing, carry on. You should increase the discharge volume, as long as the pump lasts. It were my compressor, I probably wouldn't unless I had a store of parts to rebuild the pump when it failed.

Nice pics and very nice car!

Cheers,

Bill

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Orientation of the high pressure exhaust valve on speedair 3z180C

by Tim
(Gillette Wyoming)

I have a new high pressure exhaust valve for my compressor since the other one came apart and was wondering if anyone new which seal goes on the top and bottom of the valve one is a copper print and other is aluminum.

Thanks
Tim

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