Not getting air pressure to the outlet pressure gauge

by Larry Ball
(McKinney, Texas)

There is not air being discharged. The tank pressure is full but I am not getting any pressure through the regulator. I have a porter cable C2002WK


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Bill says...

Larry, I get questions about this many times. So many, in fact, that there is a page about it.

Wander over to the TROUBLESHOOTING page, and click the link to "has no air out of hose" for some tips.

Cheers,

Bill

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porter-cable cpfc2tv3525vp 25gal compressor

by Eric
(Naples Fl)

My compressor has developed an issue..at first I thought I had a problem with the pressure switch but after snooping around here I realize it may be I believe the unloader valve.

Heres what it does it comes on fine goes allthe way up to pressure, motor clicks off and the unloader valve opens up only problem is it never closes so it bleeds all the way off untill the point that the motor kicks back on and we start the whole cycle off again.

I should also mention that NEAR that point of where it is getting ready to come on the motor struggles but does not quite turn hums a little at this point if I don't hit the lever to turn it off it will trip the breaker.

In order to start it at this point I have to bleed off additional air and then I can throw the switch and start this cycle off again.

I should mention that although this compreesor is not directly in the weather it is outside and it is very humid here in Naples fl all the time which brings me to my next issue.

my drain in the bottom of the tank has begun to leak, I have tried teflon tape and it is not as bad but it is still there. Any thoughts you all might have would be greatly appreciated

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Bill says....

Eric, lets tackle the little problems first.

If your unloader valve is bleeding air when the air compressor stops and the leaking continues after a second or so, then check out your CHECK VALVE for I think it is leaking. See the check valve page for more info on it.

Or, if it bleeding air all the time, it may be that the unloader valve isn't working at all, and the leak is from the tank, not over the piston, which might account for the hard startup.

If the drain is leaking, replace the drain. If it is, as I suspect, a leak due to corrosion, it may be time to look at a whole new compressor.

Cheers,

Bill




Comments for porter-cable cpfc2tv3525vp 25gal compressor

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Aug 08, 2011
Since I wrote my request.......
by: Eric

Since I wrote my request to you I HAD figured out through further reading on YOUR site that it was not the pressure nor the unloader valve but in fact the check valve. I was so sure late last evening/early this morning 1:30am that I got up went out to the carport where it sits rolled it back to the house and removed the check valve and it is without a doubt the problem, very rusted to the point where the bottom is a jagged mess, I wish people could see this. AND yes I would have had put a new pressure switch in and was actually looking for the part on-line when I stumbled accross your site so you saved me about $70. + shipping And I would have really been pissed when it didn't fix the problem LOL. Incidently I spoke to my wife earlier today (she had left for her work before I got up) and I told her hey you should be happy I am not going to spend $500. on a compressor today No she said I would be happy if you get the one out of my kitchen. So I have ordered the check valve ($17. + $3. for a new drain valve I drain this thing every time I use it and have over tightened several times to the point of stipping it) I really would like to get one of those auto drains but I can't figure out which one is right or how much it would cost

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Auto drain are really for folks using their air compressors every day, as so much water builds up that it can flow downstream with the air. When you use your air compressor, leave the drain open.

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air is released through the drain valve on the porter-cable c2002

by clifford
(union, nj)

pressure builds and air escapes through the drain valve on the porter cable c2002

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Bill says...

Hello Clifford.

Terms can be confusing sometimes, so I'm not certain what it is you mean by the drain valve on the Porter Cable compressor.

If by the drain valve you mean the drain at the bottom of the tank, and air is escaping from there, is there some reason why you don't simply close the drain valve?

If the drain valve you refer to is not the one on the bottom of the tank, maybe you could post a comment here further identifying what you mean by the term "drain valve"?

Cheers,

Bill


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tank pressure guage reads 0, but output pressure occurs and guage there reads ok

by Stephen
(maine)

I have a one year old P/C oil less pancake compressor. My tank pressure guage always reads '0'. My output guage works ok. The knob to reguate the output pressure seems to be stripped. When I attempt to open the valve to allow more output pressure, usually above 90 psi, the knob won't turn unless I slowly and firmly push and turn at the same time. This allows me to get up to 100psi at the most. My son was using the compressor and had it running for about 20-25 minutes before he realized that the drain valve was open, I don't know if this caused my probs. Any idea as to what's wrong?
S

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Bill says....

Stephen, some (many?) regulators require the operator to either push up or pull down on the knob to allow it to connect to the adjustment nut inside. It's sort of a security issue.

Dump all the air from the tank with the compressor off. Swap the regulator gauge with the tank gauge.

If now the regulator gauge is pooched and the tank gauge is OK, then you need a new gauge. They are a consumable.

The normal break in for an air compressor is to run it with the drain valve open for a period of time to ensure that the compressor runs long enough to accomplish that. Only time will tell if running yours as long as you did created any damage. No way to tell.

If the compressor only puts out, say, 100 PSI, turning the regulator knob to trial to dial up past that point is a waste of time. See the REGULATORS page for more info.

Cheers,

Bill

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