Craftmans Air Compressor taking forever to fill

(middletown, md)

I have Craftmans 60 Gal 6.5HP 220V oil less vertical air compressor. It's about 7 years old. Lately it is taking forever to fill the tank with air and the motor sounds louder than normal. If I let is run it will fill to the desired setting and does not leak once it is full. Any help on this problem would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Bill says....

Don't be surprised if one of these days the compressor pressure level gets to a position, and even though the compressor keeps running, the pressure will not build past that point.

There are a number of reasons why this occurs. Visit the TROUBLESHOOTING page, and click the link to the info on why compressors won't build pressure.



Comments for Craftmans Air Compressor taking forever to fill

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Mar 25, 2012
I bet this is your problem, I had it with same model
by: Mike Van Unen

I asume your air filter isn't clogged up...

The pair of tubes coming out from the head have these little cheap ass rubber cone washers. The head gets way too hot when heavy use for these i.m.o but anyway it is hard to determine this becasue the fan is blowing so much air on these tube connections anyway,,, and the check valve is shortly down wind from as the tubes go into the checkvalve and then the tank, so the leak stops about instantly when the motor kicks off. Take off your cover and or shrowed... You could probably feel hot air coming out right around the tubes at head connection. Take off the compression nuts that hold teh tubes in the head. The tubes will come right out. Best options to fix this are 1-Figure out a better washer then the cheap ones they come with 2-Order the replacements parts and pay big bucks for cheap ass washers that will take up to weeks to arrive. 3-Go to your local hardware store and get yourself a pair of 3/8" X 1/2 cone washers. If they have the orange ones, pay the extra 20 cents and get them. They have many names for the same washer in plumbing terms, if in doubt ask for help, tell him you have a 3/8" supply line that you want to hook to a half inch iron pipe niple. Make sure it does NOT have threads in the center, needs to be smooth. Make sure its for 1/2 pipe and not 7/8th toilet ballcock size. Or just look for the biggest hole cone washer available for a 1/2".
Slide the washer up on the tube where you took the old melted up or missing ones off. With the new washer and compresion nut slide down sever inches, push the tube all the way in the head hole and keep pressing on the tube and slide the rubber cone washer up in the whole with out letting go of the tube you are pushing firmly against the seat in side the head hole outlet. With your other hand push the nut on the cone washer as your pushing on the tube and turn clockwise until hand tight. Snug it up with a wrench. Before you put the stuff back together, run it for a little while and watch your presure gauge. Once it gets up a bit carefully feel around the cone washer tube and nut and feel for air. IF it from the fan the air will feel constant, if from the cone washer, it will pulsate.
My unit went from only gtting to 60 psi after ten minutes to turning on and getting to the full 120psi in a few short minutes, even though my rings and cyl are not in good shape. This is the first place to look on oil free units like this as it is the first step in checking the pistons and rings anyway. *Shrowed removal" Washers about 2- cents.

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Plumbing a 33 gallon \ 2hp Craftsman compressor

by Raymond

I need to figure out the best way to plumb my home compressor.

I have a Desiccant Dryer Model # PA208503AV currently on order for my Craftsman model919.168700 compressor.

I will only be running one leg, how far from the compressor should I place the regulator?

Currently it's connected almost directly to the unit.

Also how far from the regulator should I install the dryer? Does it need to be x from the regulator?

What would be the best pipe to use and does it matter how far you run the pipe from the compressor? Could I plumb everything within 6'?

If someone could send me a little diagram that would be great. I'm using the unit to sand\primer my car. I appreciate any information.


Bill answers...

Hey Raymond, very nice to hear from you.

As far as I recall, every one of your questions has been answered on a number of different pages on this website.

May I suggest that you use the Sitemap to view the pages that seem to best provide information about what you need to know? It seems somewhat redundant to have all the info up there, and then re-type it again...wouldn't you say? :-)

As far as the distance from the compressor to the dryer, check their specs first. I think you'll see that the air temp going into the dryer has an effect on the dryer efficiency. If it were me, I'd plumb the dryer as far away from the compressor as I could, to let the air cool naturally.

That's covered on the "Water - what causes it and how to fix it" pages too!

The regulator's purpose is to reduce the pressure downstream from itself, and to try and maintain that pressure as the tools operate. There's an issue of pressure loss over a long pipe length, but for the most part, you put the regulator where you want to control the downstream pressure. It doesn't hurt to have the regulator installed downstream from the dryer, and between the dryer and the regulator you should install a general purpose air filter to remove any airstream particulates that might be caused by the dryer.



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