Vertical 5.5hp oil-free compresson, can it lay flat for transport?
Maybe a dumb question, but I have a 5.5hp vertical air compressor with a 25gal tank. My friend says that I can't transport it on it's side because oil will leave the cylinder? How can this be if it's oil free or was this a problem with old systems?
Good question, James. If there is no oil, then oil from the sump can't slop into areas, bringing sediment and oil sump crud with it. That's the problem with putting an oil lubed compressor in a different orientation than designed for. It would be like running your car while it's up on its side.
If it were my oil free air compressor, and assuming I took care to support the various parts to ensure they couldn't be damaged in transport, I would have no problem moving it on its side.
My suggestion to is to make sure you drain the tank first to void the tank and allow any tank crud out, and leave the tank drain open while moving it.
Rewire 3.5 hp 15 Gal Model 919.152912 for 220v
I have a 16 year old 3.5 hp 15 gallon Craftsman compressor that I would like to change over from 110v to 220v. The motor cover says that it is rated to 220v and a sticker on the side says to check the manual for how to rewire for 220v but I don't see anything in the manual that says how to do it.
I pulled the cover off where the cord connects to the motor but there are only two wire running to the motor which makes me think that the motor can only be wired for 110v (I recently rewired my table saw - non-Craftsman - to 220v and it had 4 wires running to the motor).
Is there some way to wire my compressor for 220v or am I stuck at 110v?
Tim, if the motor is rated for 110 V only, then that's what you get, chum. I suspect that the two wires are indicating that.
I am not an electrician, and I do not rebuild or wire motors, so cannot offer electrical advice.
I do think that if your motor is taken to a motor rebuild shop, they may give you a value for it against the purchase of a 220, and, at the same time, verify the voltage.
Craftsman oiless compressor destroyed 2 sets of pistons in 1year
by Jim Henderson
(Walnut, CA, USA)
I have a 60 gallon single stage oil less Craftsman compressor. In about 1 year of intermittant running, it has literally destroyed 3 out of 4 pistons/rods.
It was originally used for light duty intermittant factory use. When it blew the first 2 rods in less than a year, Sears replaced the whole unit with an oiled compressor, no problems.
I replaced the two broken pistons/rods and have been using it in my garage maybe once a month for a few months. But it sat for a year before I had wired in the 240 line. Most of the time it runs up to full presssure and then on for a minute or two every hour or so while using it. So wild guess is very few hours on the rebuild. But, I did leave it on overnite a few times and found out it would cycle off and on maybe every few hours. But just for a minute or two. So still low hours.
Blew the third piston/rod this weekend. Snapped clean in half about 1 inch above the "big end" of the connecting rod. There is some signs of the side of the rod beating against something a few times, I suspect this may have happend just shortly before failure. Haven't found out yet what it was beating against. No signs of corrosion failure etc.
Short story... Is this typical for this "Industrial" compressor from Sears to need new pistons on a regular basis? It costs something like $150 in parts the last time I replaced them. I hate to throw away what otherwise seems to be a nice compressor, but can't afford $150 yearly maintenance on a compressor. ALternatively anyone convert this model to oiled compressors? How, and is it worth the effort?
Any help would be appreciated.
Jim, I have no personal experience with this Craftsman air compressor, yet I'm sure many folks have.
I am happy to post this for you and invite other Craftsman air compressor users to share their experience with Jim, and others.
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919.165050 How to replace Counter weight/bearing assembly
Counter weight/bearing assembly broke at Rod. Got new counter weight/bearing assembly. Rod is in good condition.
HOW TO REPLACE? Do I need to remove piston? Do I need a press to get bearing out of rod? There is a torx screw on bottom of rod, below a gap in the casting. But above the gap looks solid where bearing is at.