Kobalt model 232177 - runs and shuts off. Won't build pressure.

by Cal
(Memphis)

Runs for a 5 seconds then cuts off...then every once in awhile to will hit for a second or two.







Bill answers...

Hi Cal:

A bit more information, if you could.

What's the pressure in the tank? When the compressor runs for a few seconds, is the tank empty, or is it at full pressure?

What do you mean that it will "hit for a second or two"? Does this mean that it starts and runs for two second then stops?

When it stops, does it "unload"?

Maybe we can figure it out if you can give me more info.

Cheers,

Bill

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May 15, 2011
need to find a motor for the same compressor
by: Anonymous

i have to same compressor and the motor burned up and i am having trouble finding a replacement i can find parts for everything but the motor the compressor is in good shape so i would rather fix it than throw it away, thanks for your help

_________

Disconnect the motor from the compressor, and take it to a electric motor rebuild shop. I suspect that they will have a replacement for you.

B.


May 14, 2011
Similar issue
by: Geoff

I have 2 Kobalt 236005 compressors (17 Gallon portable). Both experiencing the same symptoms. When you hit the power switch they make 1 to 2 revolutions of the electric motor and then trigger a switch that shuts them down. The tank is empty (no pressure). When I took the line loose to the tank, the compressor would pump and I could even hook the line back and fill the tank once, but under pressure, the issue starts again when the compressor tries to refill. I am guessing by the parts diagram, maybe the check valve is bad on the motor? Any input would be appreciated before I start throwing money at parts. Thanks!

________________________

You say... "The tank is empty (no pressure)" and then you also say "but under pressure, the issue starts again when the compressor tries to refill".

Is your unloader valve working?

B.


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Kobalt Pump - it fails to build pressure


I was given a 30 gallon Kobalt compressor unit. The owner knew nothing about it so I do not have a history on it. I plugged it in and it pumps fine to between 63 PSI. the motor seems extremely loud but never hearing it before I can't say. Once it reaches somewhere in there it fails to build pressure. I tore it down to see what I could find. I found the air intake hose was completely melted on the end and bent in half restricting air greatly.

I cut the hose and put it back together hoping that would fix. it would then only pump to 55 PSI and fail to build pressure. the motor sounds the same. Tore it back apart (even further this time and found the valve (see picture) on the exhaust side had damage. My question is if this is most likely the source of my problems and what these are made out of. There is daylight visible between the valve and valve plate but would this be enough to not let it build more pressure? Thanks

Randy

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Bill says..

Hey Randy. Good for you for tearing you compressor down so far.

On this page is a link to the many reasons why a compressor won't build pressure. It looks like this...."I've just added a page that summarizes many of the answers about why a compressor won't build pressure. That page is right here."

If you haven't yet, have a read of this page.

Also, when you are seeing the valves in an non-energized state, you really can't see what's happening under pressure.

Once the pressure reaches the point where they can't resist the pressure, leaking valves will simply ingest and expel air as the compressor pump cycles, and the air pressure won't rise further.

Cheers,

Bill

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Kobalt fails to run to refill tank

by Jim G.
(Bellevue, NE)

I have a Kobalt 5.5 Gallon 232177 that will fill correctly to 135 PSI. When it tries to kick back on to refill the tank the engine cannot start back up. You can hear it trying to start but it fails.

To bypass the issue I turn the unit off then empty the tank. Then the unit will fill back up to 135.

My thought is the start capacitor but I am not sure since the unit does start up after I drain the tank again.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

-Jim

____________________
Bill says...

Jim. Check out the UNLOADER VALVE page. It sure sounds to me as though this is your problem. Let us know by comment here, OK?

Bill

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Sep 12, 2015
Check valve
by: Bill

Good question. Since it's got a mini-pressure switch there is no integral unloader with that switch.

It may be one that continuously unloads as it runs through a small hole either in the line to the tank or, perhaps, in the head of the piston / cylinder.

This type bleeds air all the time when the compressor is running then, when the compressor reaches cut out, the check valve keeps the air in the tank, and the bleed hole vents air over the piston.

You'll need to remove the shroud to find the bleed hole, I expect.

Sep 12, 2015
Part Number for unloader valve
by: Anonymous

Where is the unloader valve on this compressor?

Jul 10, 2011
Check Valve\Unloader Valve replaced
by: Jim G

Hello Bill,

I just wanted to drop back by and leave a follow up message to my original post.

You were correct!

The replacement check Valve fixed the issue with the unit failing to refill its tank after initial use.

The compressor is working fine now without issue.

Thank you very much for your help with this issue!

-Jim G

Jun 19, 2011
re
by: JimG

Thanks for the direction of where to look Bill. I ordered a new check valve to see if that fixes the issue.

______________________
Jim, does your unloader valve actually unload when the compressor reaches the cut out pressure and stops? Based on what your first comment was, I suspected that the unloader valve wasn't working, and that left pressure over the piston, and that overloaded the draw on startup.

I'm not sure that you have a check valve problem.

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pressure builds to approx. 70 psi only

by Mike
(Fort Walton Beach, Fl)

Hello Bill

I have a Kobalt tank/compressor unit p/n VLK1582609 s/n F23114093A.
The unit has approx 50 hours usage without any problems till now--
Suddenly it won't build past about 73 psi. Motor continues to run, no difference in motor sound,no leaks that I can find. Is an electric compressor--any ideas??
____________________
While there are many issues with an air compressor that could result in your compressors symptoms Mike, it is only 2-3 that are the most common.

So, check the most common first.

See troubleshooting and follow the link to the page about why air compressors run but don't build air pressure any more.

Bill

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Mar 20, 2015
How do i remove piston
by: Anonymous

I have Kobalt VLK1582609.

I tore it down to find that the piston o ring is hanging out one side of the piston.

I've tried to take the arm off that attaches to the belt pulley but i can't get the allan bolt to budge.Ive been trying for days even been spraying P.B blaster on it.Any suggestions

Nov 29, 2013
pressure problem
by: Mike

I ended up takeing the comp apart myself and found that a piston ring had been improperly installed. The ring was made of teflon ( I think --or something along that line) and when piston installed into the cylinder wall, it pinched out. After the unit ran for a time, the flat portion of the rind worn thru and allowed the blow-by. Took unit back to Lowes (after 7 years), convinced the manager it was a flaw from the beginning and they have refunded my money.
_______________
My goodness. Good for you and for Lowes for extending real customer service.

B.

Nov 23, 2013
pressure builds to approx. 70 psi only
by: Mike

Just to update the problem with my Kobalt VLK1582609 compressor. I have just opened it up and when I removed the piston sleeve I found that the ring appears to be pinched. Don't know if this just happened or if it had been that way all along and finally started to leak past. I don't think this is recent as the ring is hard and stiff. I see no damage to the piston wall and it has what appears to be soot on the valves. (Could be the material from the ring wearing)
Hopefully I can find the replacement locally, if not, will look for somepne on line that stocks it--
My question now is--should I lubricte the piston walls with anything before reassembly? Also--is there a torque spec for the head bolts?
Hopefully this will help someone else shoudl they have a problem.

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