compressor will only build 70 lbs pressure

by john
(evans ga, usa)

2 yr old IR ss5ls 60 gal tank 230v. compressor will only build 70 lbs pressure.pump runs and runs, gets hot and sized up. let it cool and runs again but still 70 lbs pressure??? should i remove the head and check valves? suction side does suck air through filter.thanks, jm


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John, if nothing has changed in the power supply of the compressor, then it is possible that you have a valve issue.

By a change in the power supply, I don't just mean that maybe something else is pulling power from the compressor feed, but that maybe the capacitor is going? See that page under Electrical on the site map for how to test.

It could also be a gasket letting go inside allowing air to circulate but not get into the tank.

If the power supply is good and unchanged, the air intake filter is clean, then yup, I would be tearing it down and replacing all valves and gaskets.

Oh, and before you do that, pull, clean and replace the tank check valve just to be sure that that is not the problem, and you might consider getting your motor load tested to be sure that it's not wearing out.

Cheers,

Bill

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New Ingersoll Rand 1.5hp compressor is tripping on board breaker when cold

by Bobby
(Chicago)

Ok....Brand new 20gal IR 1.5Hp compressor for the garage.

The garage is climate controlled to 55 degrees.

My electrician just ran new dedicated 20amp circuit with 14awg wire. (I'm questioning the smaller wire)

On start up, the compressor is sluggish and having a hard time getting up to speed only to stop when the on board breaker trips.

Unit works fine when its warmer. It's only when the unit has rested for many days and its cold. (55degrees)

Hooked up a meter to the circuit. It's drawing 57AMPS at start up!!!! The voltage drops from 124 down to 73 when trying to get up to speed. Once the unit gets warmed up, it operates at 13amps regularly but has a surge of up to 50 amps when starting. The manual gives 14 different possible causes for sluggish start up with a breaker trip. I've eliminated most of them due to the fact that its brand new. (bad bearings,motor etc.) I'm certain that the temp plays a factor because when I put a heater next to the unit, the breaker doesn't trip. I'm using the supplied synthetic oil from IR. I'm just really frustrated because its brand new and I cant imagine 55degrees being cold enough to warrant a crank case heater. I'm wondering if the wire gauge is having an impact? It's quite a long run to the panel. 100ft min. My electrician says it should be ok considering the label claims only 15amp total usage for the unit and its drawing 13amps normally. He thinks there may be issues with the pump. I'm calling IR on Monday but thought may you guys had an idea in the mean time. I appreciate any suggestions.

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Wow Bobby, most excellent post. Thanks for providing all the info.

I suspect you know what the problem is based on reading between the lines.

How long is the 14 gauge line from the panel to your outlet? I think that you are experiencing voltage drop due to the length of the line, and the little bit of cold you have in your garage is just enough to thicken the oil to the point where the motor is working too hard trying to start and pops the breaker.

Take the compressor to an outlet near the panel, and I suspect your problem will disappear.

Maybe let us know?

Cheers,

Bill

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Ingersol Rand commercial 80 gallon compressor - Compressor won't start after moving

by Mike Donohue
(Cleveland Ohio)

I recently relocated the compressor. I drained the oil as it was transported layed down almost horizontal in a soft riding vehicle. I let it sit for 2 day prior to putting the oil back in and plugging it in . The compressor and motor pulleys rotate freely with no noise however the compressor will not start. The motor makes no noise, no hum, no nothing. I bypassed the pressure switch and reset switch on the motor to no avail. There is current at the motor on both sides of the line and the ground is good. It is a 5hp Doerr motor on an Ingersol Rand commercial 80 gallon compressor. Taking the cover off the back of the motor shows the wiring to be tight. It worked fine before transport and I transported it so I kmow it was not jarred in any way. What could have happened to the motor?

email mamjkt@wowway.com
phone 440-979-1479,440-263-2382

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Mike, if there is no loose connection, perhaps due to vibration during the move, then the next thing I'd do is check the capacitors. If the motor isn't making any noise at all when the power gets there, then I suspect that the power isn't actually getting to the motor.

Cheers,

Bill

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Feb 26, 2012
5 hp 80 gallon Ingersol Rand Doerr motor
by: Mike Donohue

I just put 2 new capacitors on and still nothing

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You can test capacitors without having to buy new. Sorry you did so to no positive results.

You've done all the checks I would. If power is getting to the starter circuit / the motor circuit, and the caps are new, then it's got to be the motor. Check it out next.

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Rotary vanes

by Scott
(Livonia, Michigan)

Hi Bill, Thank you for your site!

I have an Ingersoll Rand Model# GRB-125 Gyro-flo portable compressor. This thing has run fantastic for years starts right up doesn't burn any engine oil.

My problem has been the rotary shaft seal, and now the rotary vanes have failed. I have been seaching the net for 3 days and have come back to you for help. I know that I am going to have to custom cut these vanes (unless I get real lucky) cutting or sanding to size is no problem it's finding the material can you help?

Thank you again! p.s. If I can't fix the Air End I'm going to have a great continental G-193 for sale.
Serial # 125R 64040

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Bill says...

Scott, I'm happy to post this for you so that folks with more knowledge than me about air vane technology can offer to help.

You might want to talk to these folks and ask them, too

www.tenmatus.com/Content/Rotary%20Vanes

www.spauldingcom.com/air_tools.html

Cheers,

Bill

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